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Throttle Position Sensor help please.

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #11  
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Dying front O2 sensors will cause the symptoms you describe, as they age the output voltage drops making the PCM believe the mix is lean--it compensates by making the mix richer. As long as their output is "switching" this will not throw a DTC. If they are running cold from bad heaters they will also cause this, often with no DTCs.

Log the short term fuel trims if you can, if they are in the +20% range then one or both O2 sensors are dying. They can be bench tested with a propane torch and a multimeter--here's how...
Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:25 PM
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Thanks man I will give this a shot. I changed the bank 2 sensor 1 just two days ago cause it was all over the place when we stuck the scan tool on my car. My bank 1 and 2, sensors 2 would those have anything to do with this as well or just bank 1 and 2, sensors 1. Since you mention the 20% I remember my friend mentioning something about 19% on the sensors.
Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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The front sensors are supposed to be "all over the place" (actually between 0.2 an 0.8 V) when the PCM is in closed loop mode--more about that here.

Only the front sensors (the #1 sensors, sensors 11 and 21) are used for engine control, the #2 (rear) sensors only monitor the catalytic converter efficiency. Also make sure the MAF is clean and check the fuel pressure. A dying fuel rail pressure sensor can cause the f/p to rise...
Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:43 PM
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Could a stuck open injector also cause these problems as well cause I have changed my injectors out as well. I went from the pink top ones to the yellow ones I was told they was 21 lbs for 21 lbs
Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GT210
Could a stuck open injector also cause these problems as well cause I have changed my injectors out as well. I went from the pink top ones to the yellow ones I was told they was 21 lbs for 21 lbs
A stuck/sticking injector could indeed cause such a problem. The yellow (orange) injectors are 19 lb/h and were used prior to mid 2002, and are therefore likely older than the pink (lavender) 21 lb/h injectors you had.

Why did you swap them out?
Old Sep 23, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #16  
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Well this all began with a intake manifold swap due to having a crack in between the thermostat housing and cylinder 5 and was causing coolant to fill up in 5 and 7 and 6 and 8 was dry. So when I took off the intake and the injectors I saw that tips of the injectors and few of them had some cracks in them and a couple just crumbled to pieces. I kept all my lavender ones as well. Could I just swap out tips from the yellow to the lavender. I have changed all hoses and replaced all the gaskets as well and I have cleaned the MAF as well due to a new K&N with all that oil it clogged it up as soon as I slapped the new filter on there and was popping up MAF well cleaned that and it all went away and now I'm just trying to track down this problem as well.
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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Okay I just got back and checked all injectors and they are fine. But the codes were the same o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. Isn't bank 2 sensor 1 on the driver side? Cause that what I was told so maybe I'm switching out the wrong o2 and another code came up about a stuck open o2 same sensor bank 2 sensor 1.
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:23 AM
  #18  
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My TPS was at 19% as well if that helps any.
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #19  
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Alright I think I may have found my problem here. I found a burned o2 sensor connector not on the actual o2 sensor it self but the connector on the transmission harness it looks like it hit the muffler. Well i turned the key on and messed with it after clearing the codes and and it popped right up. Can I just cut the connector off the transmission harness and splice it into the o2 sensor harness?
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:16 AM
  #20  
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lol what happened to the TPS code you were getting, how did it turn into o2?



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