Drastang

anyone got a video on just rear caliper removal from lines? guys keep telling me a trick to plug the lines so I don't have to darin whole system, but I don't get what they are saying.

Urambo Tauro

I think they're referring to hose pinch-off pliers. These pliers have a blunt head that pinches the line without cutting or tearing it, and they lock into position so you can leave it in place while working. I've done this with locking needle-nose pliers, by wrapping the teeth in electrical tape to keep them from chewing up the rubber.

But some say the act of pinching the lines causes damage anyway, even though there is no visible evidence. I've heard of one case where pinching the line caused a flap of rubber to tear away from the inner lining of the hose, causing problems later on.

Either way, you're still going to have to bleed the air out. No way around it.

Drastang

so I might as well drain whole system how* much fluid dose it hold?

WJL

You can also put a nut and bolt in the banjo housing using a copper washer on both side it will seal it off.

I have also used Spring clamps, with no problems

I forgot to mention do not let the system run dry you will only open up the possiblitity of a lot of problem. Pinch the line off and if your concerned that you damaged it, replace the line when you put the caliper back on. Not that expensive.

Drastang

well I have a completely new caliper/ caliper bracket and I'm still grinding could I just need to re align my caliper with the axel?

I have been tapped my a eclipse....... on the wheel and I mean the wheel it'self got hit could this have moved my caliper attachment
years back? and just never had a problem till I put new parts on?????

WJL

What kind of shape is your rotor in, take the rotor off and check both the front and back for any scoring/wear, also if you have a dial indicator take the tire off put the lug nuts back on with just the rotor install the dial indicator rotate the axle and check the run out on the rotor surface, this will let you know if the axle itself is bent.

You should also check for axle shaft end play

Occasionally you may need to shim the caliper bracket but most instances are with aftermarket parts/kits not OEM (original equipment manufacturer)

Is it a constant grind or just when you apply the brake

Drastang

the grind is constant but the caliper is lose and free when I remove my wheel even after going on a ride. it seems the rotor is grinding in to the caliper's open end* or end facing outward*. everything is new except the axel and the attaching bracket to axel. new disk, new pads, new caliper, and the bracket that attaches to caliper. oil is free flowing when I attach a tube to it , it dose drain. when I re-attach everything and tighten up the lugs it looks great... move 50 ft it's grinding constant grinding noise though but no lack of acceleration as if a e-brake was engaged.

WJL

Take a picture and post it

Drastang

I know this is a bad pic it's 9pm here and the driveway I use has a whole family in it...
again it "looks" like the caliper wont move but I swear it is free moving if I remove the pads it dances. also this is a new caliper bracket last one has a 1/8 inch grove carved by rotor.

Drastang

I'm just going to disconnect the whole assembly from axel and reposition it. do you have any tips for this or is that a bad idea cause that's my last option in my mind.