4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 12:34 AM
  #1  
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tlthotrod
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Default 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

I recently purchased a nitrous kit (dry) from Zex. The problem is the instructions are very, very basic. The diagram is even worse. I need to know which wires need to be connected to on the tps as far as color. I also need to know, which vacuum hoses on the upper plenum I can plumb into to make the system work and which vacuum hoses can be plumbed into on the fuel pressure regulator. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks

2000 GT, too many mods to list.
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 01:58 AM
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

Black to ground source,red powere source,white to the middle wire out of your tps..
Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:03 AM
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

ORIGINAL: rick98gt

Black to ground source,red powere source,white to the middle wire out of your tps..
Exactly. I just took a multimeter to the TPS and stuck into a wire and pulled the TB open and watched the voltage. Top wire has the voltage go up as the TB opens... so that made sense to me. Connected the nitrous controller to it, pulled it open and it didn't click, when I let go, it clicked the solenoids open. Oops. So I checked the middle wire, voltage does DOWN as the TB opens, which is where the wire must be connected.

I can say I had NO problems with my Zex kit, the instructions were perfectly clear, minus the TPS instructions, which only took about 10 minutes to figure out and hook up. I had the wet kit, not the dry kit so mine involved some fuel line work... I can't tell you what vacuum line to tap in to, but I can only imagine if all it needs is vacuum, any of them will work. I don't see why a vacuum line would be required... what does the kit say it is used for?

Don't let this turn you away from a Zex wet kit, I can assure you it's install couldn't be simpler!
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:16 AM
  #4  
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

Not that it's extremely difficult to do, just lack of figureing out time. I work 60-70 hrs a week and have had very little time to work on my car, I work for Caterpillar, and after all day of working on heavy equipment I don't feel to much like working when I get home. I've had the dry kit sitting in my garage for 2 months before I even mounted the bottle. The instructions say the vacuum line to go to the pressure regulator is to increase the fuel being supplied, while the one to the throttle body, if I'm reading correctly would tell the pressure regulator to increase the fuel flow via the controller box which both vacuum hoses connect to. The wires though, I took one look at the instructions and decided I'd better consult someone who knows for sure. My question with the vacuum hoses where, if I tee off with another line, would that decrease actual vacuum running through the lines and would that effect the system any. Where the gaines from the nitrous extremely noticeable? I too, will be running with the 75 setting, but mine is dry, shouldn't be any difference between wet and dry, or is there?

I have been working on my car for 2 years now. Heads have been ported and gasket matched, intake is the stock plastic one, I have the C&L upper plenum and 70mm throttle body. BBK cold air mounted through the fender, steeda underdrive pulleys, ford racing ceramic coated headers, BBK off road x pipe, flowmasters, zex nitrous kit, short throw shifter, carbon fiber hood and trunk, fiberglass fenders, fiberglass body kit, rear seat delete, fully adjustable coilovers, 3.73 rear gears, 17x9 and 17x10.5 ford racing wheels fr500 , corbeau racing seats, customized center console to be shorter and lower, 30 lbs injectors and 80 mm bbk Mass sensor, and a superchip configured for my setup. unfortunately I have a long way to go before I'll be satisfied. I have yet to hit the track with it and hope to do so this year some time, I'd like to know what she'll do.

Thanks to all replies so far and thanks in advance to any future responses.

If anyone has a setup similar to mine, I'd like to know what your times where so I can have a solid goal to shoot for.

Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:25 AM
  #5  
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

your car sounds sweet!! got any pics? i'm thinking of getting the dry zex. let us know how you made out.i have no ideas on times sorry.
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:41 AM
  #6  
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

I have pictures, but they are too big to upload. Any help here on how to resize to upload?
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:45 AM
  #7  
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ROB 98GT
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

you have to find somebody to host you pics, like putfile.com. in the chop shop section in the sticky's it will show you how to do this. i tried it for the first time last week, it's not that hard. good luck
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:51 AM
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

goo luck with the install and if you need anything, let me know....I know a thing or two about getting some HP out of the lil 4.6.
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 02:20 AM
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

My goal is to whoop up on some chevy muscle, be it camaros or corvettes or the new gtos. Any help to improve these chances would be loved. Hardley anyone in my area drives v8 stangers, it's 90% chevy and 9%import .5% trucks and .5% mustangs. Maybe not that bad, but certainly seems that way. Any helpfull hints would be great, there is a local speed shop but they laugh at mustangs so everything that has been done to mine has been done by me, unless I drive to houston.
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 02:39 AM
  #10  
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ShadowDrake
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Default RE: 4.6 2V Nitrous problems...

I would say any vacuum is fine, it does produce a fairly decent amount of vacuum, if there is something introducing air into the system, it will compensate, if not, the temporary loss in vacuum will be made up for almost immediately after you stop spraying. The only thing you need to worry about is your fuel pump coming up short. For a 75 shot, your injectors are more than enough, and the fuel pump will still be able to keep up. I'd say tap any vacuum line because they are not specific.

With the dry kit, your plastic intake will be safe. Be sure that you check your plugs after you run nitrous every time for the first 15-20 times. Be VERY aware of detonation, and if the power doesn't seem all there when you spray. You can't be positive as to how the ECU will react to it leaning out very badly as soon as you start spraying. I'd say start off with a short 3-4 seconds of spray, maybe a little more and check your plugs. And step it up to a full 1/4 mile time if the plugs look perfect and it sounded perfect, then check them again. It's going to be your best indication of the running condition.



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