Clutch Install Writeup???
6th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,797
From: Tennessee
RE: Clutch Install Writeup???
I did mine, and IT SUCKED!
But now that I've done it once, I could do it again 100x easier and faster. I got a write up off stangworld or something like that. It wasn't really that helpful.
But now that I've done it once, I could do it again 100x easier and faster. I got a write up off stangworld or something like that. It wasn't really that helpful.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 660
From: Iowa
RE: Clutch Install Writeup???
I did spings, shocks and all that ****. I know how it could go alot faster the 2nd time around. Took like an hour for one front side, and like 30 mins for the other. 
Isnt it funny how that works. . . .
Isnt it funny how that works. . . .
4th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,460
From: Kentucky
RE: Clutch Install Writeup???
Its really not bad...Especially with a lift.
...I just did mine and can maybe help or walk you through it...Pretty simple...Remove drive shaft...Remove H-pipe(hardest part)(remember to disconnect all o2 sensors)....remove Starter (and hope the third bolt on top is already missing)LOL...remove shifter bezel,,and plate and then shifter...Drain the fluid in the trans if you dont have a plug to put in the rear of the trans(will createa huge mess).remove clutch cable cover.Pop off Cltuch cable (may have to pry back with a pry bar on ctuch fork).Disconnect all sensors from trans.Lay harness asideRemove rear trans mount (while supporting trans with a jack)....lower it down....Remove all the bell housing bolts...Get help to pull the trans BACK and OUT...Note...the motor will tip forward aftre you remove the trans...You will need to jack the front of the motorUP in order to put the trans back into clear the trans tunnel...Replace clutch pak..Pilot bearing should be replaced if you have the right tool to do so....Reverse procedure....Dont forget to fillte trans back up..
...I just did mine and can maybe help or walk you through it...Pretty simple...Remove drive shaft...Remove H-pipe(hardest part)(remember to disconnect all o2 sensors)....remove Starter (and hope the third bolt on top is already missing)LOL...remove shifter bezel,,and plate and then shifter...Drain the fluid in the trans if you dont have a plug to put in the rear of the trans(will createa huge mess).remove clutch cable cover.Pop off Cltuch cable (may have to pry back with a pry bar on ctuch fork).Disconnect all sensors from trans.Lay harness asideRemove rear trans mount (while supporting trans with a jack)....lower it down....Remove all the bell housing bolts...Get help to pull the trans BACK and OUT...Note...the motor will tip forward aftre you remove the trans...You will need to jack the front of the motorUP in order to put the trans back into clear the trans tunnel...Replace clutch pak..Pilot bearing should be replaced if you have the right tool to do so....Reverse procedure....Dont forget to fillte trans back up..
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,363
From:
RE: Clutch Install Writeup???
the motor wont tip far enough forward to hurt anything. i jus did a customers 03 gt. it was a PITA. nothings really 2 hard if you have the rite tools its just alot of work. if you dont have a lift [:@]gooooooooood luck!!!!!
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,984
From: Port Monmouth, New Jersey
RE: Clutch Install Writeup???
ok
The first thing you are going to want to do is pull the center console apart inside the car and remove the shifter, very simple couple of bolts and its out. Put the car up on jackstands on all four corners. Remove the battery from the car. get underneath the car and remove the drive shaft bolts from the pinion flange, they are a 12 mm 12 point(MUST USE 12 POINT).Place a pan under the tail end of the trans to catch any unexpected fluid and remove the drive shaft and .set aside. Next is to disconnect the catback from the midpipe and the from the manifolds(headers,longtubes w/e).first disconnect all of the O2 harnesses, and remove the front passenger side O2 sensor so that you can get both of the studs on that side. Probably alot of any penetrating oil(PB Blaster, freeze off, NOT WD40) on the manifold bolts/studs. A couple of extensions and maybe a swivel or two and you should be able to get them out. If you can get an impact gun(granted you have a compressior) use it. Once the midpipe is out, drain the fluid from the passenger side of the trans and now its time to remove the starter. The third bolt up top is the hardest to get too but you can actually see it if you remove the passenger tire and look around a bit with a light. You have to get a 2ft 3/8 entension and couple of smaller ones and a swivel or two to manuever it into there. A second pair of hands can make this quite easy, one person holds the socket on the bolt the other turns the rachet slowly. Once the starter is free, either let it hang off to the side or unbolt the connections to it and take it out. Next thing up is the bellhousing bolts, there are approxmitely 7 and they are all fairly simple to get to except for the top two which you will need a couple of extensions for, 13 mm bolts. Next thing you have to do is remove the crossmember underneath the transmission. Its just two bolts to get the tranny unbolted(18 mm I believe) and then before you remove the bolts for the mount, get another person underneath there with you to balance the trans when you pull it out. Get a jack underneath the trans about in the middle(really where your most comfortable). Basically now, you are pulling the trans out with a couple of good pulls between you and your buddy. Make sure to check the seals in the trans and replace them if necessary. once the trans is out, clean the bellhousing up really good with a good brake cleaner Check the fork for any extreme wear and tear and clean it up. Remove the old throwout bearing and clean up the imput shaft. Grease the new throwout bearing(if necessary) and the tip of the input shaft. Remove the clutch pressure plate, (13mm) and the clutch disk. You will now be looking at the flywheel with either 6 or 8 bolts. These are very very tight(loctite. You need a buddy to put a load on the crank(use a socket on the crank pulley bolt), to break these bolts free. At a very minimum, have the flywheel inspected and turned so that it is smooth and flat. While you are underneath there, check out the pilot bearing, kinda difficult to remove but the common do it your self way to pack it full of heavy grease and insert a aliment tool(common auto parts store) and strike it with a hammer till it falls out. To insert the new one, a socket slight smaller then the bearing and tap it in gently. Again grease if necessary. Now onto assembly. After your flywheel has been turned, clean it off with your brake cleaner and do not touch with the flywheel surface with your fingers( no oil on the surfaces) and clean the pressure plate with the brake cleaner(again don't touch afterwards). The flywheels bolts should be loctited onto the engine. The torque rating is 90 lbft tighting in a criss cross pattern. Next up is the clutch and pressure plate assembly, these bolts should be torque down to to 16-24 lb ft again in a criss cross pattern. Use the aliment tool the entire time to ensure everything is in place correctly. Its now time to get the transmission back into place. Again a buddy will be a huge help here. Just line the trans up and give it a good push and it should pop into place. Bolt down the bellhousing bolts, set up the transmission cross member and bolt the tranny mount to the cross member. Just restall everything that needs to be put back in, starter, midpipe, electrical connections(reverse switch, speed sensor), driveshaft(loctite the pinion flange bolts) O2 sensor connections. Fill the tranny up through the shifter with 3 quarts of some good quality fluid. reinstall the battery and start the car checking for any leaks.
If i missed anything let me know
The first thing you are going to want to do is pull the center console apart inside the car and remove the shifter, very simple couple of bolts and its out. Put the car up on jackstands on all four corners. Remove the battery from the car. get underneath the car and remove the drive shaft bolts from the pinion flange, they are a 12 mm 12 point(MUST USE 12 POINT).Place a pan under the tail end of the trans to catch any unexpected fluid and remove the drive shaft and .set aside. Next is to disconnect the catback from the midpipe and the from the manifolds(headers,longtubes w/e).first disconnect all of the O2 harnesses, and remove the front passenger side O2 sensor so that you can get both of the studs on that side. Probably alot of any penetrating oil(PB Blaster, freeze off, NOT WD40) on the manifold bolts/studs. A couple of extensions and maybe a swivel or two and you should be able to get them out. If you can get an impact gun(granted you have a compressior) use it. Once the midpipe is out, drain the fluid from the passenger side of the trans and now its time to remove the starter. The third bolt up top is the hardest to get too but you can actually see it if you remove the passenger tire and look around a bit with a light. You have to get a 2ft 3/8 entension and couple of smaller ones and a swivel or two to manuever it into there. A second pair of hands can make this quite easy, one person holds the socket on the bolt the other turns the rachet slowly. Once the starter is free, either let it hang off to the side or unbolt the connections to it and take it out. Next thing up is the bellhousing bolts, there are approxmitely 7 and they are all fairly simple to get to except for the top two which you will need a couple of extensions for, 13 mm bolts. Next thing you have to do is remove the crossmember underneath the transmission. Its just two bolts to get the tranny unbolted(18 mm I believe) and then before you remove the bolts for the mount, get another person underneath there with you to balance the trans when you pull it out. Get a jack underneath the trans about in the middle(really where your most comfortable). Basically now, you are pulling the trans out with a couple of good pulls between you and your buddy. Make sure to check the seals in the trans and replace them if necessary. once the trans is out, clean the bellhousing up really good with a good brake cleaner Check the fork for any extreme wear and tear and clean it up. Remove the old throwout bearing and clean up the imput shaft. Grease the new throwout bearing(if necessary) and the tip of the input shaft. Remove the clutch pressure plate, (13mm) and the clutch disk. You will now be looking at the flywheel with either 6 or 8 bolts. These are very very tight(loctite. You need a buddy to put a load on the crank(use a socket on the crank pulley bolt), to break these bolts free. At a very minimum, have the flywheel inspected and turned so that it is smooth and flat. While you are underneath there, check out the pilot bearing, kinda difficult to remove but the common do it your self way to pack it full of heavy grease and insert a aliment tool(common auto parts store) and strike it with a hammer till it falls out. To insert the new one, a socket slight smaller then the bearing and tap it in gently. Again grease if necessary. Now onto assembly. After your flywheel has been turned, clean it off with your brake cleaner and do not touch with the flywheel surface with your fingers( no oil on the surfaces) and clean the pressure plate with the brake cleaner(again don't touch afterwards). The flywheels bolts should be loctited onto the engine. The torque rating is 90 lbft tighting in a criss cross pattern. Next up is the clutch and pressure plate assembly, these bolts should be torque down to to 16-24 lb ft again in a criss cross pattern. Use the aliment tool the entire time to ensure everything is in place correctly. Its now time to get the transmission back into place. Again a buddy will be a huge help here. Just line the trans up and give it a good push and it should pop into place. Bolt down the bellhousing bolts, set up the transmission cross member and bolt the tranny mount to the cross member. Just restall everything that needs to be put back in, starter, midpipe, electrical connections(reverse switch, speed sensor), driveshaft(loctite the pinion flange bolts) O2 sensor connections. Fill the tranny up through the shifter with 3 quarts of some good quality fluid. reinstall the battery and start the car checking for any leaks.
If i missed anything let me know
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