4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

need traction!!!

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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #11  
Darkcrime's Avatar
Darkcrime
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,231
From: Michigan
Default RE: need traction!!!

I'd like to see that kids dyno sheet. a 99-04 GT is NOT making 260RWHP with just LT's, a CAI and a Tune. I don't mean to rain on your parade... Just thought the 260rwhp was a bit much.
Old Aug 23, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #12  
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ben790450
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Default RE: need traction!!!

You need to look at suspension or you're gonna get DR's and still have traction issues.
You want traction look at this:
Upper and lower control arms
Shocks
SOFT (not hard like eibach) springs
Subframe connectors
Replace bushings
Panhard bar
And if you're really serious take out your front sway bar. . . . . .

DR's is not the instant answer for traction issues.
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 12:59 AM
  #13  
2000GT4.6's Avatar
2000GT4.6
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,575
From: United States
Default RE: need traction!!!

ORIGINAL: 1fast 99gt

Ok before anywone spends 400+ on gears let me tell you you need tires too. I raced a kid with l/t and a cai and a tune and his car is puttnig out 260rwhp i have full bolt ons and 4.10's and it was a drivers race. If i could hook up i would have 2 cars on his ***. Anywone selling M/Ts
With your power level MTs are going to be too much, will probably end up bogging the car out more than launching hard.

Get some nittos, when I had basically your mods they hooked really well, and you can run them as street tires. With my suspension work my 315 nittos still hook pretty well considering I am making 400+ WHP.
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:21 AM
  #14  
01snake's Avatar
01snake
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,795
From: Michigan
Default RE: need traction!!!

the guy that owns alternative auto does wonders with stangs

the guy i bought my car off of had my car dynoed at walsh motorsports also

my car put down 319rwhp with:
k&n filter
ported intake manifold
diablo chip
custom tune
o/r x
flowmaster 40's

and people dont believe it

AND i have a dyno sheet to prove it
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 02:18 AM
  #15  
2000GT4.6's Avatar
2000GT4.6
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,575
From: United States
Default RE: need traction!!!

ORIGINAL: 01snake

the guy that owns alternative auto does wonders with stangs

the guy i bought my car off of had my car dynoed at walsh motorsports also

my car put down 319rwhp with:
k&n filter
ported intake manifold
diablo chip
custom tune
o/r x
flowmaster 40's

and people dont believe it

AND i have a dyno sheet to prove it
Either that, or his dyno reads high. Don't discount this a bit, it happens ALL the time, espcially with dynojets.

You need to look at suspension or you're gonna get DR's and still have traction issues.
You want traction look at this:
Upper and lower control arms
Shocks
SOFT (not hard like eibach) springs
Subframe connectors
Replace bushings
Panhard bar
And if you're really serious take out your front sway bar. . . . . .

DR's is not the instant answer for traction issues.
On a bolton only car, a drag radial is more than enough to get the job done without suspension work. On the street, a nitto is more than enough, as your not going to be doing any wheelstands on a bolton only car anyway.

At the track its another matter, but a tire like a MT is NOT going to spin, even with no suspension work, on a 260 WHP bolton only car. You just don't have the power to turn them over.

Hell, with just stock style aftemarket suspension and 420 WHP I cannot turn over the MTs with a 4500 RPM launch at the strip ifI heat em up good... and this is at a track that doens't exactly prep really well.

Lets put it this way, I never touched the suspension till AFTER the blower went on. Even with just 275 nitto d/rs on the back, I could pop the clutch pretty hard and jet off on the street, with no tire spin, if the nittos were warmed up. That was even making 280 WHP with cams etc.

hes got full exhaust, weight reduction, a chip and gears and i assume other small bolt-ons.. raced a car with ..lets say the same except gears... no whoever you raced had motor work or gears.. 4.10's will spin through first and some of second (wont spin that much if you know how to drive with the 4.10's try a clutch drop at 1500 rpm's) youd pull on him like a hooker giving a handjob. yes traction would improve your acceleration, but the 4.10's would have kept you in your powerband longer than him, meaning you should have reeeeeled him in.
I wouldn't bet on it... true the 4.10s help out in each gear, but with stock 3.27s he is going to be staying in his lower, and thus more agressive, gears longer. Without a good launch I can see a more agressive ratio acutally hurting you in a race, or even in a race from a roll.

it takes ALOT to come back from getting pulled on, that is to say if someone already outlaunches you and is pulling away it takes alot more to catch back up and then pass em then it would if you were already side by side/outlaunched him. A set of gears isn't going to make THAT much of a difference, espcially not a 4.10.
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 04:28 PM
  #16  
1fast 99gt's Avatar
1fast 99gt
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,959
From:
Default RE: need traction!!!

i am talking about the E/T streets radial not the drag.
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #17  
ben790450's Avatar
ben790450
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,928
From: Colorado- 8500 feet!
Default RE: need traction!!!

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6

ORIGINAL: 01snake

the guy that owns alternative auto does wonders with stangs

the guy i bought my car off of had my car dynoed at walsh motorsports also

my car put down 319rwhp with:
k&n filter
ported intake manifold
diablo chip
custom tune
o/r x
flowmaster 40's

and people dont believe it

AND i have a dyno sheet to prove it
Either that, or his dyno reads high. Don't discount this a bit, it happens ALL the time, espcially with dynojets.

You need to look at suspension or you're gonna get DR's and still have traction issues.
You want traction look at this:
Upper and lower control arms
Shocks
SOFT (not hard like eibach) springs
Subframe connectors
Replace bushings
Panhard bar
And if you're really serious take out your front sway bar. . . . . .

DR's is not the instant answer for traction issues.
On a bolton only car, a drag radial is more than enough to get the job done without suspension work. On the street, a nitto is more than enough, as your not going to be doing any wheelstands on a bolton only car anyway.

At the track its another matter, but a tire like a MT is NOT going to spin, even with no suspension work, on a 260 WHP bolton only car. You just don't have the power to turn them over.

Hell, with just stock style aftemarket suspension and 420 WHP I cannot turn over the MTs with a 4500 RPM launch at the strip ifI heat em up good... and this is at a track that doens't exactly prep really well.

Lets put it this way, I never touched the suspension till AFTER the blower went on. Even with just 275 nitto d/rs on the back, I could pop the clutch pretty hard and jet off on the street, with no tire spin, if the nittos were warmed up. That was even making 280 WHP with cams etc.

Yeah but you're gonna have much better launches with suspension work and your tires are going to last A LOT longer. Of coarse you can go and throw DR's on a stock suspension with mild bolt ons but i would put my money on the car that has suspension work done and then goes and gets DR's than the car with just dr's. I say do suspension first then dr's. Even if your car is stock. A set of upper and lower control arms are cheap off ebay. Atleast just do that. You dont need all that crap like springs and all that. Maybe get some shocks too but thats all you really need. Then get dr's.
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