Well I'm bored now so Ifigured I'd start my 4v swap thread, hopefully it will be made into a sticky so it won't be asked as frequently.
PARTS I USED AND PRICES:
1996 Cobra engine-complete minus fuel injectors+computer $2000(35k miles used)
4.6 flexplate and flexplate bolts $105 (new)
JLT RAI $150ish (new)
4.6 cobra MAF, fuel injectors, IMRC deletes $175 (used)
96-98 throttle cable bracket $25 (new)
96-98 throttle cable $50 (used)
Total expense: $2505
Other expensesI haven't run into yet: install price and tune for GT computer
My GT computer tuned to the cobra's specifications, you MUST use IMRC deletes if you want to use your stock GT computer, otherwise you'll need to buy a cobra computer. AlsoI haven't added in the install price yet, because it hasn't been installed yet.

Alright so as of now, I have the 4v motor in the car, 2v taken out, I'll go over the key things we ran into, it's best to have ATLEAST 1 other person helping, alot easier if you have a 2nd
EASIEST way to do the swap is to take both the motor AND the transmission out together, if we wouldn't have, we would of had a hell of a time taking it apart inside the engine bay and putting it back together inside the engine bay so best way is to take it out like that. So you'll have to disconnect everything with the transmission too, we found the quickest way to do it was have oneperson under the car, taking all thethingsthat hold the tranny in, and the other 2disconnecteverything from the motor. Another thing to considerbeforetakingthe whole motor apart is taking the plastic stuffoff that your windshieldwipers sit ontop of, it helps for clearance issues and they crack easily if you smack'em accidentlywith something.
Basically start out with all the mickey mouse kind of stuff, disconnecting it like the air intake, parts of the wiring harness, radiator hoses, midpipe. That's another thing that I thought of, before you actually do the swap, drain both the oil and the radiator coolant, prevents you from working in a mess the day of the swap.
Once you have most of the wiring/hoses disconnected you should take off the power steering pump/pump resiviorand the A/C compressor, just leave them sit in the engine bay. We found it was easier to thake out the electric fan and theradiatorfor more clearance when pulling the motor, soI reccomenddoing so, it will help in the long run.
SO, once you have everything disconnected from both the motor and the transmission you are ready to pull the motor. You'll need to take your alternator off of the motor so you have something to put your chain links on for pulling the motor, we used the 2 front alternator bolts and the 2 top head bolts and put chain links on them, it's a good idea to have a good tilt on it since you are also pulling the tranny.
Whenever we had it out of the car it was a very easy job of splitting the tranny from the motor, just take the bolts out and get if off the dowels. After this we just bolted up the tranny to the cobra motor. One thing you must watch out for (on autos atleast) is having the flexplate bolt holes lined up with the torque converter bolts, otherwise you won't get a good fit and have to redo it. You'll also have to pull your starter off if you don't have another one,with the tranny out of the car it makes it SOOOOOO much easier totake off, becauseford in their ulimate wisdom,decided to put a3rd bolt on thestarter in the mosthorrid place to get at. One thing we did with the cobra motor was disconnect all the EGR crap, so now my car deffinetly won't pass PA emissions but it makes the job alot easier for clearance when putting it in the car, and just hooking up a bunch of crap to each other. Only way I let this go is the guy from SGS said I could just take it down there and he will pass it for me.
Instead of using my cobra wiring harness, we used my GT harness instead simply because the guy from Kauffmans (now SGS automotive) told me it would be easier to, you'll have to extend a few wires but everything will match up, so take that into consideration when using wiring harnesses.Since I'm missing my fuel injectors and IMRC deletesstill we just pulled my whole intake off, taped up the head ports and took the alternator off and chained her back up.
Once you start putting it in the car again, be sure to have a jack underneath where the tranny will go, basically to help steady the back end for putting the motor in. One thing to watch for with this is the A/C compressor, it can get in the way sometimes, also be sure to put the motor in without a oil filter, it will get caught up on the drivers side and cause clearance problems. Best way we found to get the motor in was having atleast 2 other poeple help guide the motor, a 3rd can be of help but sometimes just get in the way a little too. One thing to watch for clearance wise is your heater hose piping, when we put mine we bent the crap out of my bottom pipe, so hopefully i won't need a new heater core. Once we had the drivers side motor mount stud in, the passenger we just used a pry bar and a hammer and smacked it and it fell right in (it was just barely away from falling in the hole).
Whenever you get the motor mounts in the holes, you're pretty much doing the same job in reverse, have 1 person under the car putting together all the tranny items, and the other two reconnecting everything on the motor. Now since I don't have everything to completely finish the swap, we hooked up everything that mounts onto the tranny so we don't have to deal with any of that, only thing we need to do underneath the car now is the midpipe install. We reinstalled the radiator and electric fan, hooked up the A/C compresser and power steering pump back up to the motor (they are pretty much universal from GT to Cobra) and hooked up whatever on the harness we could without having the intake on.

That's about all the major things I can remember, I apologize for not having pictures, but I was morely into helping out than taking pictures, and also for not getting very in depth with some of the work, the guy from SGS knew what he was doing and had things done so quick I couldn't really keep with him on everything he had done. Once we get the intake on and all I'll update again and let you all know what type of problems you may run into with that.

 

will you be selling your 75mm tb and plenum?????

 

how hard is it gonna be to bolt that up to the auto tranny?? i've seen a couple of cobra's with built 4R70W's in them, one at a car show down here, but i didn't get a chance to talk to the guy. Didn't know how much, if any, work was needed to match it up

 

already sold it awhileback, as for the tranny's mounting up they should just bolt up together, if not i will not be a happy person tomorrow

 

now ive also heard that you can jsut buy the cobra motor and swap the heads and all the timing equipment from a complete cobra motor and make the process a little easier - and little cheaper install wise

 

that's very backwards. You'd have to buy many MANY different parts from a cobra swap if you're not just going to buy the complete engine, Heads/Intake/Timing components are only the major components, but much more little odds and ends parts are needed, which usually makes the swap end up being a much larger PITA and more expensive than just pulling a 2v motor out, dropping the 4v motor in

 

I'll add some parts that also people need to be aware off. Nate letme know if you don't want me to add my .02 to your thread. Just trying to help you out with the sticky
-The GT hood will rub on the 96 to 98 Cobra intake if you have the hood liner on your hood it will be really bad. I was able to cut my hood in the spots that rub to clear the intake.
-The cruise control cable will also be to short
-Make sure you get the Thermostat housing with your swap. If you don't it will be $110 for all the parts. Your GT Rad hoses will not work on the 4V either.
-Don't waist your time with a Cobra T45 if you get one with your swap. The tail shaft is different and the Trans cross member will need modifying to work.

 

nope i'll take all the advice you got to give, the more knowledge the better!

 

If you do that your compression would go down. I don't remember the math of it, but I figured it would have been 8.2:1 for a 99pi motor and 96-98 heads...

 

updated the thread up top