just want to see what you all think of my plans.
My motor is currently built pretty well.
Prepped/sleeved DSS block.
302 stroker kit, all forged obviously.
BBK plenum/tb.
PI intake manifold.
Ported and polished NPI heads.
Stage 2 cams.
5 angle valve job.
Saleen pulley kit.
SCT MAF.
MSD coil packs.
BBK longtubes, catless H, flowmaster 40s, dumps.
FRPP Aluminum driveshaft.
4.10s.
Steeda short throw on a rebuilt T-45
ZEX 125 dry shot.(obviously tuned for it, all the 'get a wet kit or nothing' people stfu and don't bother preaching).
I'm sure there is plenty I'm forgetting as well...

But the point of this thread is I want more. Thinking of sticking to all motor and juice. I have thought about going with a KB 2.1L kit... But I'm kinda enjoying NA and N2O...

I was thinking of getting the Patriot stage 3 heads, some stage 3 cams, Some form of aluminum intake, be it a Trick Flow, Typhoon, Hardball'r, or P-51 I'm not sure. Looking for somethin aluminum that will help me as much as possible without being so free flowing that it is going to just kill on a NA car.
If anyone has any other suggestions on upping the bar a bit while staying NA and no the N2O rather than going FI, I would love to get some input! Thanks in advance.

 

Just personal preference and opinion but between N2O and s/c I would def. slap a s/c on it in a heart beat if I had the money...to me its always added a little more "muscle" to a muscle car. Just my .02.

 

yeah yeah I know man. Like I said, I am kinda back and forth between going with a twin screw kit, or just continuing on my higher compression NA motor and the N2O. I personaly enjoy the car as it sits, but we all build em more and more and want to go quicker and quicker... But, I would realy like some input on the head/cam choice I have mentioned. If anyone can enlighten me on that, I would love to know what would be the most recomended and cost effective way to go about that. Or maybe my idea of the patriot stage 3 heads is my best route?

 

if u are already forged - not sure why u don't take advantage and go with F/I with some serious boost 12-13 lbs - it would be nasty. But if u don't want F/I I would go w/ the heads and cams.

 

how is serious boost 12-13# on a forged motor????[&:]

if your heads are already reworked from it saying you having a 5 angle valve job, i would not get the heads... the cams could hurt you unless you go with more of a custom cam... your not gonna get into the powerband untill around 3500rpms with a stage 3 and on a n/a motor that can hurt. i would say maybe a intake manifold or a bigger nitrous shot. you could run a 200 on that motor.

 

a bigger shot was also something im considering. 200 is the number im looking into.. HOWEVER i am currently running a dry kit. spraying a 200 dry would be a lot more work than say just getting a wet kit without a bottle and replacing my dry kit all together lol.

any other suggestions? thanks for the info so far... and power not being in the real low end of the powerband im not too worried about. im not a ****** street racer, i dont do "roll races" i take it to the track... when are you below 3500rpm on the drag strip? lol

 

No more insight? I know there are more NA and Nitrous injected guys out there to gimme more info or advice.

 

what compression are you running, and what did you dyno to the rear wheels on just motor (without the nitrous)?

 

10.5:1
and as far as actual dyno numbers i am going to find out this spring when i hit the dyno. the engine builders dyno'ed the car and have it claimed to be right about 400hp to the wheels NA.... i, along with all the people on the board saying "omg 2v mustangs cant do that, its impossible" do not believe it. so im going to take it to a different place and have it re-dyno-tuned and all that fun stuff this spring.