Hey guys, I just wanted to let you all know i'm doing a port and polish job on a set of stock cast PI Heads for a PI swap. The reason i'm posting this first is to start a progress post where I will update as progress as made. Hopefully it will take less than a month to do the actual shaping, and polishing. In the last week I pulled all of the vale springs/valves with the classic style spring compressor. A word to the wise if you have the money buy the Ford Valve spring Compressor, it will save you time, effort, and possibly some skin. During my trials so far i've found that the stock PI castings aren't too bas, but leave for a lot of room for improvement. This is my first ever port, and polish job, but i'm finding it very easy if you take your time, and download/buy the right tools/instructions. Anyway enough talking, currently i'm waiting for a die grinder to come in the mail so I decided since I've got the valves out I would try the Standard Abrasives bits with a battery power drill just too see how easy the material would come off. Heres what i've done in about ten minutes, and hopefully within the next two weeks, I will have gotten the grinder in and made more progress to upload as well as a better digital camera so please enjoy.

Please look at the bottom of this page for the pic it was too big for this site, and please feel free to check out my stang while you are there. Also it's lowered now. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3062749


Thanks,
-Matt

 

Sounds like its going to be a pretty big job... Good luck.

 

Thanks 1sloblkgt, this is my first real heavy modding to a car. Cant wait to get those Cushman cams in there with those heads. Also I have a question for everyone. What is the hp difference between LT's and Shorties? Also will bigger valves benifit for an N/A application or will stock size valves do better in an N/A application?

P.S. 1sloblkgt, keep me posted on your stang I interested to see how it goes. Where abouts are you out of curiosity?

Thanks all,
-Matt

 

Ive read around that shortys are about 10 hp on average and longtubes up to 25. Most people say dont bother with shorty headers.

 

Here's a cutaway view of the PI head.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec.../photo_01.html

Most people say to leave the airdam in place when doing the heads ona daily driver.

 

No problem... All of my updates will be posted in the CMS stage 2 heads thread. I have posted up pictures recently of all my parts...

I am in Alabama... and yourself?

 

so do you have a flow bench to test the heads with or is this just a half a$$ hope it works type of thing?? p/p heads should be done by a pro with all the right equipment. you need to have matching flow numbers in all runners without a flow bench I don't know how you are gonna achieve that. good luck anyways your gonna need it.

 

+1

 

See, this is what I hate about this forum. Too many people who don 't have the heart to try and do things themselves. Some of you even pay to have bolt - ons installed. We 're not talking about an exotic or even semi exotic car. The Mustang is a Gear head 's car. It was/is meant to be modded by the owner. If you messup, its not a big deal.Mustangs are Fords, remember? A good pair ofused pi heads is only $200 - $300. A complete, professional p/p job istwo - three times as much.If the OP wants to experiment, then more power to him. If he wants to share his learning experience with the rest of us, thats even better.

To the OP, hand porting is very common. Don 't mess with the runners, just focus on port matchingthe exhaust and intake ports to their gaskets andyou'll be fine.

 

I have done all mods myself thank you very much. but my heads had a professional p/p I will be assembling them myself and installing them myself. if the op wants a proper p/p it needs to be done with the right equipment sand paper and a die grinder is only part of the equation. having uneven volumes and flow rates will give him poor performance and possibly destroy his motor. has nothing to do with heart buddy just trying to save him alot of pain.