Nope, no new rotors, just research my fraind.

 

I know the arguments surrounding the toughness of cross-drilled rotors versus slotted. But, I've seen a heck of a lot of LeMan's cars running cross-drilled set-ups...and to compete in those settings, they would have to be tough as nails.

There has to be some quality threshold, where the "breaking/fracture" problem isn't an issue. Maybe you have to pay a ton for the quality, but I doubt LeMan's cars would run brake set-ups that are prone to rotor fracture under stress.

 

I've talked with quite a few brake specialists... there's alot of fluff on both sides of it. I bought drilled and slotted because they look awesome and one of my rotors was warped. They haven't been worn all the way in yet, so they're not up to their optimal conditions yet. From what I've heard drilled rotors is somewhat out of date and was originally used for problems with brakes of yesteryear. Most high end cars that have drilled rotors do so for weight reduction purposes. There's TONS of information and this topic has been beaten to death on almost every car forum on the net. If you are in the market for new rotors, I'd say get em' if you want; just don't expect them to give you ridiculous braking power. Like I said, I haven't got a chance to test mine yet, but I don't really expect them to make much of a difference. I've heard generally drilled rotors are more likely to crack because the structure of the rotor is compromised by having holes in it vs. the slotted rotors where there are indentations rather than holes. There's also dimples, but I really can't imagine they do much, maybe mainly for looks and a safer alternative than drilled... I'm unsure of that though.

If you're looking for brake power the best route is big brake kits, and larger calipers/better pads/SS lines.

 

The only idiot I've read is YOU Dumbass! It is a known fact that drilled rotors do NOTHING for braking efficiency with todays non gassing pads! Especially when you are running an event that has a lot of hard braking like road racing.
In terms of LeMans, they do it for weight savings but they change out rotors every race so they aren't concerned with the drills cracking.
OP, for maximum efficiency on STREET ONLY buy the blank rotors. If you will be road racing the car then slotted because of heat build up and pad glazing. If you want to run your car street only but look cool then slotted and drilled but, be warned, since your pads don't touch the insides of the drilled holes, rust will set in which will begin to compromise your rotors and, eventually, they WILL crack!

What bob states is fact! BELIEVE IT!!

John

 

Thanks for all the replies. Slotted will be it.

 

I see some one hasn't done their home work before flapping their gums. You'd be amazed at what information you find with a simple google search. But, you have to learn to spell first.

First, I suggest you read through the FAQ pages at Wilwood and Baer.

BTW, this is what a good racing brake looks like. It also makes a very good street set up, but the pads don't last very long. I go through about 3 sets a year.

 

That guy took over a post earlier about how mustangs can't look good or do anything but straight lines and if you put anything larger that 19's on your ghetto etc, don't put much faith into what he has to say.

How much that Wilwood system run ya, or do I even want to know?

 

+1,000,000,000,000 dead on.

 

I dreamed of going 6 piston caliper, but i probably will never track my car.
road course that is.

 

Hell yea, I want some 6 pistons also but.. even if you track the car thats a lot of braking power for a DD car lol