ok yea,

1. uppers arent a waste, they dont automatically **** tq boxes up.
2. your going to have to pick one, handling, or 60fts... both are able to be done cheap

wanna go fast in a straight line? we can do it for cheap... let me know

 

Great info in this thread.Please keep it coming...

 

Ok.. Chrome-Moly is very light weight, it weighs as little as it does due to the brittle nature of its construct. It works on UPR's cars because they are mainly straight line builds but if you take that and try to put it through the stresses of a spirited drive through some twisties, you could be in for a bit of fun.

Either way, it seems like a bit of the info posted wasn't read so, your money, spend it as you wish. Last bit of advice, do a little more research into the construct of the parts and the reason they are made and you will find reasons not to buy some of those parts on your list. By research, I mean to actually google chrome moly and see what it is, go read about bind studies done on the stock 4 link and why any aftermarket UCA with stiffer bushings are a bad idea and not go by what is posted on the sellers site. Millions of people get taken for a fool by turbonators because they only go by what the seller sells/tells them.

 

Never once did I say it will automatically do it. But if you think about it where is all that stress coming from that causes the torque boxes to rip? Stock UCA's have very forgiving rubber bushings that will cause UCA to contort in its mount, when you stick a solid bushing in there whats gonna give?

2) Making a car good at one thing and not at another is great if its a dedicated race car, but the OP asked for a DD setup as well.

Either way, I'm out before I get dragged into an argument that wont go anywhere, it's happend too many times in the past.

Same advice as before you can go the cheap/quick/easy way and spend money on replacing things that break or do things right the first time and actually research/spend money where it needs to be spent and have confidence that your car will hold up.

 

The front coil overs are in the K member kit. Than Ill go with the regular QA1 k member kit if chrome moly is really that bad. THe QA1 kit is cheaper anyway. CE is Competition Engineering..never heard of it? I appreciate your advice...

and Dime, I know we can do it for cheap but I also want to do it right. Did you you use rubber bushing when you did your uppers?

 

He used the bushings that come with the control arms (poly)

And by cheap, it isnt wrong. Aereon is telling you go buy from 2 of the most expensive places, when you dont need to spend 100$s of dollars extra for the name. Summit, UPR, etc... are just as good for a better price. Coil overs on the front is a good idea, but we are talkin about rear suspension at the moment werent we?

 

i have adjustable solid upper control arms with urethane bushings on the diff side (would like to get some solids from upr there 2). completely solid lowers with drop brackets (like a custom made lakewood traction bar). i have no problem ripping torque boxes out, thats why i installed the battle boxes.

 

If you want to do it right and for the best cost buy:

UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.

I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.

 

I would appreciate not having words put in my mouth, not once did I say buy from XYZ, I provided reasons as to why I recommend them, ultimately its up to the OP. He asked for info and thats what I gave, backed by auto x proven leaders. If you believe that UPR and summitracing parts can hold its weight vs MM and griggs then you are sadly mistaken. Like I said in a previous post, the reason why they are more expensive is because they actually spend money on something called R&D and then they actually worry about parts that can last the brutal g's that continuous autox days put the parts through.

As for the UCA's, go take a look at how they are angled and think about what happends as the rear axle acts as it goes over bumps/turns/squats. It doesn't take a college diploma to tell ya that theres gonna need to be some give in the UCA's to allow for the axles movements. Anyways forget everything I've posted as they go against the status quo of catalog shoppers, good luck man, have fun and last bit of advice is to tighten that nut behind the wheel as well as you can and you'll be fine. If you do find anything I've said at any bit interesting then I suggest you do your own research as it is never wise to go about listening to what is posted on any forum without a grain of salt.

Last link I'll throw up in hopes you'll read and take something away from it.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

 

Dude Im not arguing with you, You took my post the wrong way. I was simply telling the OP how he doesnt have to spend a ton of money to be able to hook up.. It w/e, I was up way too late last night anyway