Hea fellas who ya'll doing? Im really tired. But anyway, got a coupe questions for someone, anyone, everyone... How much power will a dyno tune bump me up is the advantage power, or the motor's components running together more insync? Also is Royal Purple REALLY any good? I run Valvoline full synthetic, any better? And in the spring semester im going to upgrade to 24lbs injectors, MSD coil packs, and a bigger fuel pump. With the extra air flow will the bigger injectors and coil packs give a nice boost? And NO, im not going to upgrade the cams RIGHT NOW, later perhaps; taring the motor down and having it basically rebuilt with the heads has been a HUGE headache!!! I mean to the extent that ive been a car guy for many years, i am very patient with modifications since i know things dont always fit and work right and sometimes require further modification, but this has nearly fried my last nerve.
I am curious about the comment about the cam being off by 1-2 timming chain links. Since I changed my tune my car runs great, however in the morning when the engine is cold it turns over more than before with start up (engine turns over more when the key goes in, whats up with that?) But after the engine is warm it starts up fine like when i go to a gas station, and MAN, what an aggressive hum at idle. If the cam was off would a valve hit a piston and do big damage? Ive drove my car all week, and NO problem since the re-tune. Im not so sure about the cams being off. But, IDK. Let me know what ya'll think about my novel here. OH, to the guy from Floyd county, is your stang a 97-98' body style, a cowl hood, and a wine color?
God bless.

 

Depends on many things. i would say its a good synthetic but i wont send the money for it, i use mobil 1 myself,unless your maxing out our injectors now they wont do anything for ya. Same with coil packs, the stock ones are pretty good pieces. The same principle applyies to the fuel pump, unless your losing fuel pressure at high rpm you probably dont need a bigger fuel pump.

You would definatly notice this because your car would run like **** if it even ran at all. If a valve does hit a piston your in for a very large bill...

 

If the cam is off it would hit the piston. The oil you're using is fine but i would run mobil 1 but thats preferance. As for the long crank times in the morning it the fuel could be draining back into the tank the quick way to check this is to cycle the key a couple of times one morning and see if it starts up normal. Dont buy bigger injectors if it is stock it wont help you any.

 

I may have missed something, but I assume your car is stock or mostly stock? If it is and you're looking to modify it i'd start working on the following: Exhaust, gears, suspension, aftermarket wheel/tires. If you haven't done all of those things yet, i'd recommend doing them before getting a tune and worrying about cams, injectors, MAF, etc. Again not sure exactly where you are with your car, just trying to help

 

Yes...You have missed this is the guy that started the "Just installed the Trickflow Heads" thread that has been going on..He asked all of these questions at the end of that thread.

 

I see. In that case, disregard my previous transmission.

 

That's not necessarily true. If I remember correctly, he has basicly stock cams. And I believe the TrickFlow heads re-designed the valve positioning to allow for more lift without needing notched pistons. If he'd using the stock shortblock, the postons will be dished already, so he can be off a tooth or two and not have and PTV contact. It will run, too, just like ****, since the valves aren't opening at the right time.