ga mileage has dropped
RTV for exhaust leaks??
anyways, check the pump next time you fill up. I'm guessing your area has seasonal gas. Most areas add or subtract certain chemicals depending on the season to help "clean" the exhaust. Could be as simple as a new additve or higher concentration of a new additive. Yes it can affect teh MPG and smell of exhaust.
As for the Exhaust leak. If it's at a joint and not like on the header to head connection use this stuff if you absolutely must. RTV will just burn off after a few drive cycles. This stuff is made for it. I say absolutely because if you can, it's preferred to actually fix the problem not band-aid it.
http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...Number=8195851
anyways, check the pump next time you fill up. I'm guessing your area has seasonal gas. Most areas add or subtract certain chemicals depending on the season to help "clean" the exhaust. Could be as simple as a new additve or higher concentration of a new additive. Yes it can affect teh MPG and smell of exhaust.
As for the Exhaust leak. If it's at a joint and not like on the header to head connection use this stuff if you absolutely must. RTV will just burn off after a few drive cycles. This stuff is made for it. I say absolutely because if you can, it's preferred to actually fix the problem not band-aid it.
http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...Number=8195851
how would i apply that stuff? do i need to un-bolt the exaust to put it in, or can i just shove it down the cracks of the joint? i want to do it the right way. i just spent $1,500 to fix my old rusting exhaust, only to have it leaking again. plus, my steering shaft is hitting the header still, i haven't had time to put my off-set steering rack bushings on to fix that problem.
i can't really afford that right now. i sell cars, so that explains it all lol. so you don't think that the link posted a few posts ago will do the trick? how can i fix the leak myself?
just a thought: i recently blew a spark plug outta the head. at first it sounded like an exhaust leak. i didn't notice if i lost mpg's but could that be the culprit? possibly losing mpg's because a loss in power?
13mpg is WAY too low, no matter what kind driving
i doubt its the cause of all your issues, but OP, have you changed the fuel filter lately? supposed to change it every 10k miles or every 3 oil changes...cant hurt to atleast start there
youre not gonna lose significant mpg from an exhaust leak, to my knowledge atleast, i guess i could be wrong
i doubt its the cause of all your issues, but OP, have you changed the fuel filter lately? supposed to change it every 10k miles or every 3 oil changes...cant hurt to atleast start there
youre not gonna lose significant mpg from an exhaust leak, to my knowledge atleast, i guess i could be wrong
its impossible to mistake an exhaust leak for a blown plug if he was driving it... maybe at idle with the hood closed i could see it, but driving down the road you would definately feel that...i drove my car about 2-3miles after i blew my plug to get it home...its not a smooth ride
13mpg is WAY too low, no matter what kind driving
i doubt its the cause of all your issues, but OP, have you changed the fuel filter lately? supposed to change it every 10k miles or every 3 oil changes...cant hurt to atleast start there
youre not gonna lose significant mpg from an exhaust leak, to my knowledge atleast, i guess i could be wrong
i doubt its the cause of all your issues, but OP, have you changed the fuel filter lately? supposed to change it every 10k miles or every 3 oil changes...cant hurt to atleast start there
youre not gonna lose significant mpg from an exhaust leak, to my knowledge atleast, i guess i could be wrong
go to autozone and get the fuel line disconnect tool...get a metal one, the plastic ones suck... and get a fuel filter
safety glasses optional, just dont spill it in your eyes lol...get a drain pan to catch the excess...i dont undo the battery either...and open the gas cap
EDIT** found a more detailed writeup on another forum for ya
To start, the filter is over the rear axle.
1. Bleed the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Pull the hoses from the filter
4. loosen the filter from its base
5. remove
easy done in 10 mins.
Wear safety glasses, some fuel will spill from the filter.
1. Bleed the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Pull the hoses from the filter
4. loosen the filter from its base
5. remove
easy done in 10 mins.
Wear safety glasses, some fuel will spill from the filter.
EDIT** found a more detailed writeup on another forum for ya
Tools/equipment needed
1. Motorcraft Fuel Filter--Part #FG-986B
2. 5/16Fuel Line-A/C Line Disconnect Tool. (Any autoparts store has them)
3. Flat head screw driver.
Directions
1. I first backed the car up onto my Rhino Ramps.
2. Disconnect the fuel inertia switch that is located in the trunk. This switch cuts off fuel
3. Next find the Schrader valve that is located by the throttle body, which is located at the end of the fuel rail towards the front of the car. It looks like a tire valve.
4. Once the Schrader valve is located unscrew the cap of the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or something to release the fuel pressure. This is much like letting air out of a tire....just press down and it will release the pressure. I would recommend wrapping a shop rag or towell around the Schrader valve and whatever you use to release the pressure. Gas will shoot up, not a lot, but enough.
5. Once you have the inertia switch unplugged and fuel pressure relieved start the car and let it idle until there is no more fuel getting to through the lines, which will cause the car to die on it's own and should minimize the amount of fuel that is released when changing the filter.
6. Next unplug the battery. I didn't do this, but my car threw a code after unplugging the inertia switch and used my predator to clear it. I think unplugging the battery will reset the computer after plugging the inertia switch back in when finished.
7. Get under the car and locate the fuel filter, which is right behind the gas tank.
8. Unscrew and remove the clamp.
9. Pry the fuel filter out of the the housing, which will give you a little room to work with.
10. Then take the 5/16 fuel line disconnect tool and slide in on the fuel line and move it to the outside (away from the fuel filter).
11. Once you get the fuel line disconnect tool slid all the way in, then pull the fuel line off the filter. A little bit of gas will come out so have something on the ground to soak it up.....I used some cardboard that I had left over from moving. I would also suggest goggles so fuel can't get into your eyes. Not a lot of fuel came out when I did this, but you never know.
12. Re-connect the fuel lines to the filter, but make sure the arrow on the filter is pointing toward the engine side of the fuel line.
13. Slide the filter back into the housing and put the clamp around the filter.
14. Re-connect the inertia switch
15. Re-connect the battery
16. Make sure to put the Schrader cap back on.
17. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and leave it for a few second, but do not start the car. Do that a few time to allow fuel pressure to build back up.
18. Check for any leaks.
19. Start the car and your done
1. Motorcraft Fuel Filter--Part #FG-986B
2. 5/16Fuel Line-A/C Line Disconnect Tool. (Any autoparts store has them)
3. Flat head screw driver.
Directions
1. I first backed the car up onto my Rhino Ramps.
2. Disconnect the fuel inertia switch that is located in the trunk. This switch cuts off fuel
3. Next find the Schrader valve that is located by the throttle body, which is located at the end of the fuel rail towards the front of the car. It looks like a tire valve.
4. Once the Schrader valve is located unscrew the cap of the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or something to release the fuel pressure. This is much like letting air out of a tire....just press down and it will release the pressure. I would recommend wrapping a shop rag or towell around the Schrader valve and whatever you use to release the pressure. Gas will shoot up, not a lot, but enough.
5. Once you have the inertia switch unplugged and fuel pressure relieved start the car and let it idle until there is no more fuel getting to through the lines, which will cause the car to die on it's own and should minimize the amount of fuel that is released when changing the filter.
6. Next unplug the battery. I didn't do this, but my car threw a code after unplugging the inertia switch and used my predator to clear it. I think unplugging the battery will reset the computer after plugging the inertia switch back in when finished.
7. Get under the car and locate the fuel filter, which is right behind the gas tank.
8. Unscrew and remove the clamp.
9. Pry the fuel filter out of the the housing, which will give you a little room to work with.
10. Then take the 5/16 fuel line disconnect tool and slide in on the fuel line and move it to the outside (away from the fuel filter).
11. Once you get the fuel line disconnect tool slid all the way in, then pull the fuel line off the filter. A little bit of gas will come out so have something on the ground to soak it up.....I used some cardboard that I had left over from moving. I would also suggest goggles so fuel can't get into your eyes. Not a lot of fuel came out when I did this, but you never know.
12. Re-connect the fuel lines to the filter, but make sure the arrow on the filter is pointing toward the engine side of the fuel line.
13. Slide the filter back into the housing and put the clamp around the filter.
14. Re-connect the inertia switch
15. Re-connect the battery
16. Make sure to put the Schrader cap back on.
17. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and leave it for a few second, but do not start the car. Do that a few time to allow fuel pressure to build back up.
18. Check for any leaks.
19. Start the car and your done
Last edited by 99BlackPonyGT; Nov 10, 2009 at 07:32 PM.


