Short throw shifter feel
I am thinking about getting either the 5.0 or tri-ax shifter I just wana make sure it isn't to stiff and a pain in the butt to drive afterwards cause this car is my daily driver. what do yall think?
I have the Tri-ax shifter and it's really easy to use. Maybe at first it was kind of weird because going from 2nd to 3rd I really don't have to do anything. But once you get used to it you won't want to go back to the stock shifter.
Any short-throw shifter will require more effort to change gears than the stock shifter--and the shorter the throw (relative to the stock shifter) the more effort that will be required--this is just plain ol' principles of mechanical advantage at work.
It takes a fixed amount of work (force and motion) to actually change gears, the shifter is just a lever that lets you do the job.
Let's say for sake of argument that it takes 10 lb of force to move the shift rod/gears in the tranny from 2nd to 3rd, and that the rod has to move 2". If the shift lever has a 3:1 mechanical advantage then you would be able to shift by applying 3.3 lbs of force and moving the upper end of the lever (the shift ****) 6".
If however a "short-throw" shifter with a 2:1 ratio were installed it will take a 5 lb force, but the **** will only have to be moved 4".

All short throw shifters work by decreasing the mechanical advantage of the shift lever, by either shortening the portion of the lever above the fulcrum (as shown above), or by raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below, or a combination of the two. It's the only way they can work, and regardless of the method used the result is decreased mechanical advantage.
This reduction in the mechanical advantage causes the transmission's "notchiness" (largely the effect of overcoming shift rod's ball and notch locking detents) to be amplified. That is also the way it is.
The varying reports concerning a given shifter's "notchiness" are related entirely to the amount the throw has been shortened. "Stiffness" may reside in the shifter, but notchiness is a factor of how much the throw has been shortened.
MGW claims the shortest throw (a claim I believe is so) and is often criticised for being "stiffer and notchier" than other brands. This is likely so, however I have never found it in any way objectionable, with the trade-off being it's precision rifle-bolt type action. I often find myself having shifted and being only vaguely aware that I did.
The MGW shifter is also the only product that is a complete re-engineering of the the stock design, the other being just better manufactured and slightly altered clones of the OEM shifter.
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Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with MGW, other than my appreciation for the design and quality of the product.
It takes a fixed amount of work (force and motion) to actually change gears, the shifter is just a lever that lets you do the job.
Let's say for sake of argument that it takes 10 lb of force to move the shift rod/gears in the tranny from 2nd to 3rd, and that the rod has to move 2". If the shift lever has a 3:1 mechanical advantage then you would be able to shift by applying 3.3 lbs of force and moving the upper end of the lever (the shift ****) 6".
If however a "short-throw" shifter with a 2:1 ratio were installed it will take a 5 lb force, but the **** will only have to be moved 4".

All short throw shifters work by decreasing the mechanical advantage of the shift lever, by either shortening the portion of the lever above the fulcrum (as shown above), or by raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below, or a combination of the two. It's the only way they can work, and regardless of the method used the result is decreased mechanical advantage.
This reduction in the mechanical advantage causes the transmission's "notchiness" (largely the effect of overcoming shift rod's ball and notch locking detents) to be amplified. That is also the way it is.
The varying reports concerning a given shifter's "notchiness" are related entirely to the amount the throw has been shortened. "Stiffness" may reside in the shifter, but notchiness is a factor of how much the throw has been shortened.
MGW claims the shortest throw (a claim I believe is so) and is often criticised for being "stiffer and notchier" than other brands. This is likely so, however I have never found it in any way objectionable, with the trade-off being it's precision rifle-bolt type action. I often find myself having shifted and being only vaguely aware that I did.
The MGW shifter is also the only product that is a complete re-engineering of the the stock design, the other being just better manufactured and slightly altered clones of the OEM shifter.
-----------------------------------------
Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with MGW, other than my appreciation for the design and quality of the product.
I want to replace my triax with either an MGW or a Hurst i think. Pro 50 is for tall people with long arms because the actual handle that extends upwards from the shifter base just points straight up. The rest of them have a shifter arm that is bent back towards the driver. Also, the MGW allows you to adjust the position of the shifter arm to be the most suitable for the driver. They also have other shifter arms like the blue arm and the silver arm(or used to. The silver was the shortest throw for the shifter.)
I have the Pro 5.0 now, got it used for 80 bucks. Works great and is so much better then the stock one. I bought the hurst pistol grip handle for it and its awesome for speed shifting, also you grip lower so its like having a shorter short throw.
Its not stiffer, its notcher and i like that. More of a "race car" feel, like you feel and hear the gear engage.
Its not stiffer, its notcher and i like that. More of a "race car" feel, like you feel and hear the gear engage.
my vote is for MGW i have not had another shifter other than stock, but i have not one complaint and have no reason to try another one.
i second Cliffy on shifting and not knowing it. the ability to have a shorter throw greatly outweighs the increased force needed to move the shifter, which is not greatly noticable anyways. im 6'1" with long arms and i remember needing to fully extend my arm and slightly push my shoulder forward going into 5th with the stock shifter. not to mention i had to focus on "finding" 3rd and 5th, with the stiffer centering springs it is a breeze.
witht he MGW my shoulder stays still and im about 3/4 of a fully extended arm going into 5th.
the MGW also allows you to swivel the handle around the main shaft that adds more customization for each driver.


the shifter handle looks parallel with the car front to back but it is slightly rotated toward me in the divers seat. it is only the 2 socket head cap screws that need to be undone. (pay no attention to the rubber washer under the handle...**** was too short, and also the blue hippo card on the floor lol some gift card i found from previous owner)
*note: props to Cliffy for the shift boot idea and the help with it*
i second Cliffy on shifting and not knowing it. the ability to have a shorter throw greatly outweighs the increased force needed to move the shifter, which is not greatly noticable anyways. im 6'1" with long arms and i remember needing to fully extend my arm and slightly push my shoulder forward going into 5th with the stock shifter. not to mention i had to focus on "finding" 3rd and 5th, with the stiffer centering springs it is a breeze.
witht he MGW my shoulder stays still and im about 3/4 of a fully extended arm going into 5th.
the MGW also allows you to swivel the handle around the main shaft that adds more customization for each driver.


the shifter handle looks parallel with the car front to back but it is slightly rotated toward me in the divers seat. it is only the 2 socket head cap screws that need to be undone. (pay no attention to the rubber washer under the handle...**** was too short, and also the blue hippo card on the floor lol some gift card i found from previous owner)
*note: props to Cliffy for the shift boot idea and the help with it*


