4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

I need a HOME Fix

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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #11  
Blk003GT's Avatar
Blk003GT
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,086
From: mi
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Please don't use 1000grit wayy to rough. Get 2000. I don't like to use anything under 1500 when I wetsand and buff my car and that's with a variable buffer. Build the touch up paint up like darkshadow said until its a little bubble over the original paint. Then use 2000 grit WET making sure there no sand or junk in between(ul hear it and feel it if there is) and wet sand the bubble smooth. I'd use my variable and buff it but not practicle for u to go out and buy one for that. I mean technically u should use a compound first buff that in then use a glaze. Car quest has a lot of different compounds. The compound is what is going to get the haze(tiny scratches) that the wet sand left. The glaze just finishes it off.
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 11:14 PM
  #12  
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sonicx
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speed'n
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,248
From: MN
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Originally Posted by Blk003GT
Please don't use 1000grit wayy to rough. Get 2000. I don't like to use anything under 1500 when I wetsand and buff my car and that's with a variable buffer. Build the touch up paint up like darkshadow said until its a little bubble over the original paint. Then use 2000 grit WET making sure there no sand or junk in between(ul hear it and feel it if there is) and wet sand the bubble smooth. I'd use my variable and buff it but not practicle for u to go out and buy one for that. I mean technically u should use a compound first buff that in then use a glaze. Car quest has a lot of different compounds. The compound is what is going to get the haze(tiny scratches) that the wet sand left. The glaze just finishes it off.


This ^ is where im at currently. What would you suggest next if anything? Now that compound.... would that take the whitness out from around my spots or how do i deal with that??

Thanks
jt
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