SkylerDeckard

Hello, my name is Skyler.

I have a 2004 Mustang GT 40th anniversary, Crimson Red mustang.

I got into my car the other day and my drivers side window would not roll down. I tried the passenger and it worked fine. I tried the drivers side a few times, and just decided to go on about my business. The next day, I got in my car to go to work and decided to try it again and it rolled down and up several times. I thought maybe just something strange happened and it was a one time thing. I clock out for lunch, and what do you guess, it wouldn't work again.

I have searched through a lot of forms and tried to see if anyone else has had this problem. I have a friend who works for the BMW repair shop, and says he has worked on a few and had to replace the switch.

My question is, is this common? Switch, Motor, Regulator going out.... I can buy a new regulator and motor combo from american muscle for $90 but I hate to buy it if its just the switch.

Anyone out there maybe help?

cliffyk

You have to make some voltage tests to see if power is getting to the motor.

This driver's side circuit is a bit complicated by the GEM's (Generic Electronic Module) controlling the "one-touch lowering" feature of that window. Here's the full schematic:



So, at this point with no testing having been done it could be the switch, the GEM, or the motor...

SkylerDeckard

Thanks man. I am gonna get a volt meter and see if I am getting power to anything below. So if I test on the motor and test positive for power, then its more likely the motor going out.... But if I test on the motor and there is no power to the motor, then it could be a bad switch..?

SkylerDeckard

But seriously, thanks for pulling up the schematics. That was awesome and unexpected. DD

cliffyk

I would start at the motor and work my way back--you need to place the meter across the motor's terminals, not from one to ground. The switching circuit reverses the + and - connections at the motor to reverse it's rotation--it you check from one terminal to ground in one direction you will read 0.0V. Reading across the motor terminals you'll get +12V in one direction and -12V in the other.

And yes, if there's power at the motor then the motor is likely the problem, no power there means the switch of the GEM...

DreamerGT

slam the door shut while holding down the button.

cliffyk

That's my grandmother's approach to fixing things--she always said "Anything mechanical, give it a good bash!"...

The problem is that if that "fixes" it it, also likely just made the real problem worse...

Rockwell28

mine has been doing the same thing like twice a month for the past 5years then all of a sudden it would work. its never been inop for a whole day though. sm1 told me to bang and kick next to the speaker to make it go down. but from what i've been hearing there is quite a few stangs that have that same problem

SkylerDeckard

Alright man. Just took everything apart and tested. Tested at the motor and I got a reading of 12.1 : -12.1. Tested at the switch just to double check and was getting a reading out as well.

cliffyk

Did the window work when you got the +12V reading at the motor?

If not then the motor is dead/dying--very often when the brushes wear they no longer contact the commutator with sufficient force to pass enough current to run the motor--this can be an intermittent condition until the brushes wear to the point that it just isn't going to happen--this is also why banging/slamming the door can often get things going again (it jostles the brushes and gets them into contact with the commutator).

Left unfixed long enough the commutator and brush holders will burn up. A GOOD auto electric shop could replace the brushes if you brought them the motor--the problem will be finding a GOOD auto electric shop--you might be better off just buying a new motor.

Most FLAPS have them for $50 or so...