#1: 143
#2: 138
#3: 135
#4: 130
#5: 138
#6: 125
#7: 140
#8: 138

The numbers are low, but within a reasonable range of each other. I forget exactly what my tuner calculated my engine compression to be, so I have to run these numbers by him tomorrow to see what he thinks but I figured I'd get some opinions from you guys.

Also, the spark plugs from cylinders 5 and 8 were covered in oil. The seats for the plugs were covered in oil, and it looks like some oil from an intake manifold leak is what got into cylinder 5 and kinda looks like a slight valve cover leak got into cylinder 8. Is it possible for oil to get into the plug seat area and get down through the threads until the end of the plug? I wouldn't think so, but I'm not sure.

Ripped into my blower today also, and found that my seals have gotten worse. There is a good amount of oil in there. Also, there are some fine metal shavings in the blower output as well as my TB. Not a lot, but some none the less. Zero impellar play still though. Regardless, time to go T trim.

 

Take that blower and sell it for a couple packs of Bubbalicious. Glad to hear you are finally coming to some sort of resolution on whats holding this thing back on power!

 

Yea, I am trying anyway. Bump for more input

 

not exactly on topic but i got my car compression tested with the ford tech softwear wtfever its called, and it just showed lost power on each cylinder, based on factory guidelines i guess. The biggest loss i had was 6% on 5 the rest were 2% or nothing.

pretty good for a motor with 160k+ on it.

 

I had about 160 on all cylinders except 1 on my old engine when it was around 45k miles. It was also supercharged.

 

its called IDS noob, and the test is for relative compression.

anyway, vogel, #s do seem a bit low brah. could be some iffy ring sealing issues, along with oil on the sparkplugs. What do you have for a pcv setup?

 

i had 165ish all around at 90k non sc. only rebuilt because of spun bearing. Those are low. likely means your rings are tired and if you are replacing lots of oil, like a quart a month or something, and you arnt leaking it, its likely burning it up thats doing it. meaning...sorry to say you should probebly consider a rebuild during the upgrade. Of course thats assuming you havnt changed your compression ratio to begin with. And with metal shavings in the motor, that increases wear quite a bit. Id try and find out where it came from, but its likly already going through your motor. Better safe than sorry.

 

I've got 18cc dish pistons so I knew my shortblock would be lower compression. Now whether or not this would show up in this kind of test or not IDK.

Its a newish motor brah, my rings better not be tired lol. The small metal shavings/specs are from my blower no doubt.

 

Something about the 96-98 teksids, they just don't wanna die. I friend of mine just ripped down his motor for a build in his 97, the car had 156k on it and all the bearings and engine internals looked BRAND new.

 

Jvog, did you do a wet compression test also. That would help you see if your rings are gone or your valve seals are shot. Or may be you need a complete rebuild.