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2003 Intercooler install

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Old 04-26-2012, 12:45 PM
  #11  
Bpohlman13
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Ive seen dyno graphs where people actually lost power going to shorty headers on a s/c engine. Either go with long tube headers or keep the stock manifolds.

To make your goal, youll want to get the 4" intercooler. Also, to make it easier on the engine, look into methanol injection. Itll cool down your air temps more and boost your octane, preventing detonation and give you the ability to run more timing. You may also need to get a different head unit, but youll be very close atleast with those things.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:44 PM
  #12  
oxfordgt
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Originally Posted by Nathan Wyman
My goal is around 600 flywheel hp, by the end. I have 380 proven rwhp right now at 5500 rpms with the maf pegging out. In addition to the the intercooler and smaller pulley I plan on getting a set of shorty headers as the previous owner did high flow cats, x pipe, and flowmasters but kept the restrictive exhaust manifolds. Is this a reasonable goal and whats the best/easiest way to get there?
What heads, cams and intake do you have? Shortys are a huge waste of money and time, go long tubes or nothing.

You won't even come close to reaching your hp goal with 16psi. I would need to know more about your engine to do the math so I can tell you how much boost you will need to reach your goal.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:06 PM
  #13  
oxfordgt
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Ok I did a little math judging by your current power and am guessing you have a few mods bring you to about 242rwhp before boost and 8 lbs bringing you up to 380rwhp. So to get you up to 510rwhp or 600 flywheel (your goal) you will need 18psi.

Now then you take into account your adding a 3" cooler which will rob you of about 2 psi you will have to buy a pulley that will spin the blower to 20psi. Now at 20psi your V1 blower is going to lose a lot of efficiency and pull more power out of the engine just to turn it.

Now your major drawbacks are you are gonna have major belt slip so you will have to upgrade to 8 rib and a stronger tensioner. You are gonna have to much heat so you will have to either run race gas or meth injection. Your engine will be struggling to make that power which means it could blow even tho it's forged.

My advice is to upgrade your heads, cams, intercooler size and head unit. Don't forget about your fuel system but that's a whole different topic.

But basicly with your current setup (parts) you will not reach your goal.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:43 PM
  #14  
Nathan Wyman
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Eagle forged 4340 crank, eagle 4340 H beams, wiseco forged pistons, wiseco moly file fit rings, clevitte main and rod bearings, bored .03 over. high volume oil pump, the cams are 226/230 @.05 duration, over sized injectors, high volume fuel pump, aftermarket plenum and throttle body, not sure on the throttle body size....
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:47 PM
  #15  
Nathan Wyman
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I do not want to run 18 or 20 psi as this is my daily driver and we only have 91 octane on pumps up here. 16 is the max for me. If i come up short I come up short of 600 hp, just kinda where I though I might be able to get it. The only reason I don't really want to go long tube on the headers is messing with the 02 sensors, the shortys don't interfere with mine.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:57 PM
  #16  
oxfordgt
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All you have to do with longtubes is add o2 extentions. No special tuning needed.

The cams you have are NA cams so that's gonna hurt with higher boost.

I'd say with 16lbs you should hit 450rwhp. Not to sure with only 91 tho.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:05 AM
  #17  
scooter3
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Here are a couple of threads to look over. This is how my set up is done.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...aser-pics.html

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...tall-pics.html
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