Thanks!! So when I left work yesterday, I idled up to about 2200 for a minute or two, and went...Still loaded up....I dialed the BAP back yesterday to 40, no difference.
I do have a fuel gauge, and notice on start up, it spikes up to about 80 lbs, then of course settles down. But, I have never seen it go as high as 80, even at WOT....That is why i am kinda looking at the BAP from the standpoint of excessive fuel on start......grasping.......

Never done Datalogging, but I assume it is a matter of downloading software from SCT on the laptop?? I will check into it.....


Thx,
Mike

 

Who is your tuner, mike? The BAP should only be active for WOT.

It's not a 'time' thing bro - it's a 'warm' thing. You want to make sure your dummy gauge (dummy gauge = factory temp gauge) is at least at the 1/8 mark before you take off. If it is, I'll bet you won't have any issues.

This is something that most definitely can be corrected in the tune but it is tricky and requires trial and error with the fuel trims, idle rpm, and spark to get it just right cause every car is different. In the meantime, I promise if you make sure the needle is at least at the 1/8 mark before you go, it will have cleaned itself out - unless their is an issue with the BAP and you are flooding a little on startup.

Normally though if that was happening, it would not just idle rough, it would stall and die pretty quickly after start up. Since it's not doing that, I'm pretty sure it's just a tuning issue and you just need to warm it up until you can get the tune dialed in.

 

modaddict you are the man. I just want to thank you for being on here and sharing your vast amounts of knowledge with us.

 

Yes, I agree with Cobra..I am sure alot of these questions seem quite simple for someone with vast forced induction knowledge. But for those of us that tend to be a bit paranoid because we are screwing with our daily driver, it is much appreciated.....

Anyway, the entire kit, tune inclusive, is the Brenspeed non intercooled kit. As far as the BAP, it is wired exactly as shown in Bill's write up, and also as Brenspeed suggests....

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...ll-w-pics.html

Just to reiterate, my installer did this per the brenspeed instructions, and not based upon anything else. I am using Bill's link just as an example....

So that said, should the BAP be dialed full on all the time? I backed it off from 50 (full rich) to 40, but at start up it still smells pig rich to me.....

Yes, if I allow the idiot gauge to be on the rise, then it does seem to be ok. I guess I was just trying to push the envelope, as it were, to see how long or short a time I can get by with for warm up.....

Thank you again ModAddict. It is appreciated by the novices......

Mike

 

Mike- I feel your pain and the car rest assured is safe....even as a DD. I am on the same page as Modaddict and the second tune that yielded more HP (less rich tune) after tuning by my tuner/installer did the trick. I would keep the BAP where it is right now or try the 30 setting but like Modaddict said it is for WOT runs and to make sure the fuel pump gets enough juice so no lean conditions will rear their ugly heads. Ask moose or Hammeron what their fuel pressure is showing on start up? I think at idle it is 40 psi and at wot as high as the 80's (but with a warm motor?) Dont quote me though as my gauges are right next to me and not hooked up yet and the reason I had mine dyno tuned again after presenting my problem to my tuner.

Can you get yours dyno tuned? Maybe let the installer know the issues and what was discussed online? Try ruling out the BAP being hooked up wrong and turn it off? (I don't have one yet so don't worry about a lean condition on start up when cold only) and see what happens? If the car is fine after trying that call up the installer and both of you can recheck the install and make sure nothing is askew. (like that word?) Even when I had the stock fuel pump I was not worried about fuel delivery from the stock fuel pump (now have GT500 pumps and this was after getting the tune right for my cold start issues). Do you run a sound system in the car? Just make sure it is off for the start up just to eliminate any variables (like a significant voltage drop) during the start up until the tune is fixed.....(JMO)

Hope it helps and looks like a few hours of fine tuning on the dyno may help in the long run. I left my car overnight with the installer so he could start the car and see how she acts right after as mine only did this on the first start up of the day. I live in a colder climate so this maybe yet another variable too but it appears to be the same for you with the cold starts. Keep us posted!!!!!!! We will get thru this together!!!!!

 

Well once I get my car back from the shop, Ill let you know my fuel pressure readings.

 

Hey, thanks for the support my friend. Yeah, maybe I should clarify, that I have had several e mail conversations with Seth at Brenspeed, and he has been absolutely fantastic about this. He has given me about 3 or 4 things to check, i.e. MAF clocking, tight clamps, etc. that I have weeded through. He too, suggests that especially after going FI, one needs to warm the car up completely....My installer has been back over everything, and can find nothing suspect....So, it's down to me, since one party says it's not the tune, but mechanical, and one party says its not mechanical, but the tune....
Again, don't want to give a bad impression about Seth and Brenspeed. They have been awesome. But, I still believe the car is running pig rich.....I have been looking at dyno tunes. Last guy I checked with wants 450, which I guess is about par......But damn.......
But I will do it obviously.....
Thanks for all the help and input. It helps a ton to know that someone else has experienced the same issue, and did not detonate their block!!!

Thx,
Mike

 

Have you had her dyno'd at all? I would go with that and just have them moniter the fuel trims/a/f ratio. then you can take that info back to Seth and see what he says.

 

Mike- My installer was sure it was the tune for my application. He did not even go over the mechanical aspects of it all except to look at things as he was getting the car on the dyno and hooking up his tuning software. 450 is about right but that should solve the issue if they know the modular motors and have any tuning experience....that should include a accurate A/F ratio and many other parameters of the car and the state it is in now. As Modaddict stated every car is a bit different so hopefully it will stick out like a sore thumb come tuning time. I still always let the car warm up about 5-10 mins (depending on the ambient temp) and then I am off and running like a raped ape!!!!! No bad impression of Brenspeed in any way taken and in time I am sure this will be solved
BRENSPEED ROCKS!


Exactly and if you go that route and just get some numbers from the dyno and no tuning it should be cheaper than 450 dollars!

 

Indeed it is. But the way I figure it, if I am going to spend almost half, I might as well save myself a second trip, and just GET ER DONE!!

http://www.socaltuning.com/Intro.html