So I know lower control arms are pretty much a big help for drag racing to eliminate wheel hop but do you really need the upper one. Also im on stock suspension and not really planning on changing that besides maybe panhard bar and info on adjustable pieces or not.
Thanks.

 

Brenspeed told me that LCA alone typically solve "95%" of wheel hop problems. That includes higher hp cars. You shouldn't really need the upper but there are no guarantees.

 

i just added the following suspension mods:
1) koni yellow adjustable struts/shocks
2) steeda hd strut mounts
3) steeda billet LCAs
4) steeda LCA relocation brackets (welded)
5) steeda adjustable panhard bar
6) steeda adjustable UCA
7) eibach pro-kit springs
8) Shelby Alcoa 20x9 front (with bridgestone potenza 255/35R20)
9) Shelby Alcoa 20x10 rear (with bridgestone potenza 285/30R20)

One through six were a result of changing the springs to lower the car. While it might be different on a vert, if you dont plan on changing any of the stock suspension i would only change the LCAs to reduce wheel hop (wouldnt bother with the panhard bar). However if you change anything else in the stock suspension, especially springs and wheels, you are going to want to do everything i did. IMO!

 

You only need an adjustable UCA if you plan on changing the pinion angle, the lower control arms will help if not elminate the wheel hop and traction, but changing the pinion angle will give additional help with traction.

 

So next ? is which lca's to go with?

 

I am running the BMR billet aluminum LCA's with relocation brackets. Easy to install, just remember if you get relocation brackets to have them welded after you bolt them in, if you don't and you hook up really hard at the track they will slip causing you tire to eat your fender.

 

What do the relocation brackets do? I hate my wheel hop, but i dont drive hard enough for it to bother me that much. If i could get some LCAs for $150 or so and install myself i wouldnt mind, but i cant weld. Would just the steeda billet LCAs be enough, or do you need the bracket? If you dont need the bracket would someone mind explaining the install?

 

I too have BMR lca's and relocation brackets. I started with just the LCA's first and there was still a bit of wheel hop, so I got the relocation brackets, and that helped too but IMO there is still a little bit there.

For install, you pretty much take the old one's out and put the new one's in. 2 bolts on each side.

If you do the relocation brackets, it comes with instructions and some new bolts. You can install it all yourself and then bring it to a shop to have someone throw some welds on. It should really only cost 20-30 bucks for a welder to do it. Also, the instructions show where to weld.

Good luck!

 

Just start with the LCA's, you can add the relocation brackets later. All you need for the install is a floor jack, a good set of jack stands, a few wrenches and sockets, torque wrench, some of that nasty *** red grease, grease gun, and a six pack of beer. Just take your time, it is the easiest thing I have installed so far, and for my to installed it, it needs to be easy, I don't like laying under the car much.

 

I have the Metco LCAs and love them. I'm lowered, so I got the adjustable UCA. You only need the LCAs to eliminate the wheel hop.