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Clutch Bleeding

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #1  
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aclass
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Default Clutch Bleeding

In regards to this procedure:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=263&viewfil...20Bleeding.pdf

What do the vacuum pump connections look like here?? I think I understand the stopper in the cap hole but I'm not grasping the whole bleed procedure here. It sounds to me like you seal off the loop, pull a vacuum for one minute and then release the vaccum.

I need to do something with this Spec Clutch, it starts to grab at the very top and then about a millimeter of pedal later, boom! it's fully engaged. Sometime when it's cold and you're using the clutch to back out of pull up slowly, it sounds like the freakin thing is coming through the floorboard.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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Last edited by BruceH; Jan 2, 2011 at 01:08 PM.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceH
I bought a sink stopper from Home Depot and put a hole in it for the pump tubing.
Ah Ha, so the pump hooks to the piece of tubing (or hole) in the 50mm stopper that you stick in the reservoir cap. Now if I just understand what pulling a vacuum in the reservoir actually does.
Did bleeding your clutch help you any BruceH??
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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i've wondered about this too aclass.

i think what happens is when you release the
vacuum quickly, it causes the fluid to have
motion and this motion displaces air bubbles
and if you're lucky, the bubbles make their way
up to the reservoir.

am i 100% sure, no. but it sounds plausible.




Originally Posted by aclass

Now if I just understand what pulling a vacuum in the reservoir actually does.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Last edited by BruceH; Jan 2, 2011 at 01:08 PM.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #6  
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Do you guys know of a way to save a copy to disc? I go to that service manual link and while that's great that it works it would be nice to save it and I don't get a button to do so. Is my comp screwed up?
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceH
The system self bleeds anyway. Just working the clutch pedal will release most of the air bubbles in the system.
The bleeder kit I bought didn't fit so I figured this out when in frustration I slammed the clutch to floor about 20 times then realized it was starting to have resistance. About 70 pumps later felt great.

Pulling the vacuum, the fluid can not expand, so the pressure gets passed all the way down to the air bubble, which do expand, and travel up the line. Basically boiling the bubbles out with pressure.

Last edited by JDWalton; Dec 12, 2009 at 02:51 PM.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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Understood. Thanks for the info guys.

I just wish there was something easy I could do to make the engage/disengage a little further down instead of all at once. It messes me up just wearing different pairs of shoes as silly as it sounds.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aclass
Understood. Thanks for the info guys.

I just wish there was something easy I could do to make the engage/disengage a little further down instead of all at once. It messes me up just wearing different pairs of shoes as silly as it sounds.

Good news, there is!

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-th...ring-05gt.html

Adjustable. RAM designed their Throwout Bearing and Slave Cylinder to be adjustable which allows for a wider range of adjustable movement than that of the stock OEM unit.
Old Dec 12, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #10  
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mike castaldo
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ram bearings do not work.. fyi.. but you can just change the clutch line with there line and it works great..



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