So I'm thinking of starting over with a different stang but want to know if my plan will work. Here goes: 2010 GT AUTO with Frpp top end package / Frpp long tube headers / Frpp 4.10s. What issues will I have with the hot rod cams, gears, and header fitment related to the automatic tranny?

Can it be done without huge amounts of extra effort?

 

The headers are a pain in the butt to begin with, but they should go in with a little effort. I did mine outside when I did my motor swap a month ago, I know they were a pain with the motor in there lol.

Why are you starting over with an '10??

You dead set on an auto??

Just curious...

I have about 380whp on my auto w/4.10s, Vortech V3 non-intercooled and it runs great when I launch it just right but there is little room for error. I mess up just a little bit and the auto gets confused and dosen't know which gear to go in lol

 

Be aware that the HP gains advertised for the FRPP top end package are grossly over-stated. The article claimed that THEY got 425 HP and that's probably crank on their lab-rat. Estimates are more in the 330-350 RWHP range.

 

^^ I wonder what the gains would be on a built motor, say the brenspeed 302??

 

MM&FF just got 401 BHP with the FRPP stage 3 heads and hotrod cams. I'ld ditch the FRPP long tubes and get a set or American Racing, the FRPP are not equal length nor come with cats.

 

Stealth_GT: A '10 GT Auto because the FRPP top-end package is exactly the combo I've been waiting for. Throw in some long tubes and 4.10's to round things out and I've got a 425hp street car with plenty of guts. I don't race competitively so max power is not an issue; what I want is a car with ***** that sounds great and looks great. My current '07 GT is a stick which is fine, but after a lot of thought I've decided an auto suits the purpose of the car better for me. I'm going with a 2010 specifically again because the top end package/headers/gears is exactly what I've wanted for a while, but I love the looks (mainly the front) of the '11 GT/CS which can be put on 2010 for well under $1k. Long answer sorry, but that's why.

Nuke: I don't have it in front of me (left the mag at work) but I'm pretty sure MM&FF stated it was engine HP they were measuring. They did not say long tubes were used, but in the pictures there were clearly long tubes on the engine and it was clearly an engine dyno. I hear what you and plenty of others are getting at with cost effectiveness versus a blower, and you're absolutely right, but I'm building a street cruiser - 425hp isn't shabby either way, so if I lose a red light challenge here and there I'll be alright.

A stroker would be pretty sick when the time comes for a rebuild....

 

You sound like you know what you want

Can't fault you for that.

Throw in a high stall TC and an aluminum driveshaft, lower control arms and you'll be set.

Not sure if you're against a supercharger but if you added an M90 you would be above and beyond (including the FRPP kit) what those kits put on with the base 5-6 psi, and even more with the upgraded package. I'd say, 430whp easily.

The auto is great btw...

 

Judging from what you've got on your car and your opinion of the auto I assume all issues with 4.10s and the auto have been figured out? There were a number of threads on here a while ago about guys with autos wanting 4.10s but for whatever reason were having trouble. When the day comes I would have a respectable shop do the work, depending on where I live (military life can be unpredictable) so someone like JPC in Maryland or Brothers Performance in Florida, I'm sure they can "tune out" any issues... did you have any? Any changes to the auto necessary with the HR cams?