stealth_GT

Woo hoo!

Got done practicing the cam install for my car on a donor motor in class lab today. It was a 2007 5.4 3v (same heads as ours), and it was pretty uneventful. Used the wedge tool, and specialty spring compressor tool.

Got all of the correct followers out, and the tool worked like a charm. The motor was on a stand, so I knew exactly how the tool needs to be positioned and the right angles to use. The right angles pushed the followers perfectly as the valve stem went down.

I do have a few questions though..

I set up the crank pulley with the timing indentation just as described on the install Guide (Hammeron/Hot rod cams PDF) and noticed that the center lobe (1st cylinder) was not up on the exhaust stroke. Okay, so I rotated it a full rotation of the crank.. I ended up having the timing indentation on the 11 o'clock position, and everything lined up perfectly. I then took out the rocker arms in order.

When I do my own motor, if it happens so that the lobes do NOT line up as directed, it is okay to rotate the crank until they do?

It worked fine this time, but it was on a 5.4 not a 4.6


Also, as long as the cam phasers go exactly how they came off and in the exact same position- I still scribe the marks at 11 and 1 (or was it 2) o'clock, both on the cam phaser sprocket/chain, correct?

Haven't done cams in a while, but all the rocker arms came out easy, and all the keepers stayed in place!


Thanks in advance, looking forward to getting cams! Finally!




EDIT: Thinking back, I believe it was a 4.6 3 v, but not the mustang motor. Possibly from an escape. I remember seeing the 5.4 with the big ol' top mounted manifold. The one for this motor (off already) was exactly like ours.

timmbo

Hammerons sticky has a download link for the Ford Racing cam install manual. Follow that verbatim and you will do fine. When starting the cam job your crank pulley spoke should be at 12 oclock and the timing mark at 1 oclock. Period. If things aren't lining up per the manual then you'll need to rotate the crank again clockwise 360 degrees. Now you can start your disassembly.

The cam phasers are doweled to the cams. Paint a mark on your cam chain to your phaser. Even though I had the wedge tool firmly in place hold the phaser up with one hand while swapping cams with the other. If something slips at least you have the painted marks on the phaser and chain for reassembly.

stealth_GT

.. just as long as the rocker arms that need to be removed, just as long as those have the least amount of pressure on them- it's Aokay, correct?

I had the crank pulley adjusted as directed ( indent at 1 o'clock), spoke at 12.. but had to rotate, timing mark ended up at 11...


Ill try and post up pics later..

Thanks Timmbo!

timmbo

Yup. I'm sure you know this but also when your using the valve spring compressor keep your eye on the valve stem as your compressing the spring. Sometimes the stem will hang so push down the stem as you go. If your not careful the keepers could fall out. Then your in a world of hurt if you lose em to the oil pan lol.

Its nice seeing your doing this the correct way with the proper tools. I know people have shade tree'd this job but you risk breaking a cam journal cap (it's happened) and or stripping the threads in the cam journal saddles on the head. Plus you can't get the proper torque on the caps either with a loaded valve train.

hammeron

it's hard to say now who was better prepared for their first cam
job, you or I. if you do another practice run, the scales might just tip
in your favor.

stealth_GT

That was what I had an eye on the most, the valve keepers.. I heard about horror stories about them falling in and even seen a few students drop it in the head during lab on cam install instruction lulz


So if the valve stems are still protruding from the head, the timing is off?? I noticed that the stems on all of the rocker arms were out about 1/2 an inch when I compressed the spring completley. Are they supposed to be flush with the keeper, compressed down with the spring?



I was fortunant enough to do it on a motor on a stand, so I could literally see it from every angle in which to place the foot of the compressor tool. This will only help when I have no space, and no visability when I hunched over my motor lulz

I seen a few tricks people have done as well.. everything from a water hose for a wedge tool and screw drivers etc. lol

Luckily, I do have access to speciality tools..



I did a few, but they were all on engines on motor stands...



I am still a little confused about the timing/indentation on the crank pulley though. It didn't line up the lobes like on the pic per instructions, but the cams did line up for easy removal of the rockers arms that needed to come off.

hammeron

the important thing about setting the crank pulley, is after you set it to
12 o'clock, the #1 cylinder exhaust lobe should be in the general area
as shown in my personal pic. don't worry if it's slightly off one way or another,
it'll be fine.

stealth_GT

Okay, cool.. I was trying to get all three lobes EXACTLY how it was shown, but got the center exhaust lobe set and it did the trick. I am pretty OCD about these things, so if something doesn't line up perfectly.. I'll keep at it til it does!

Those specialty tools are pretty neat.. compressed the spring like nothing.


EDIT: geez.. just took a look at the motor and the crank ended up being pretty off. I rotated the indent mark as instructed, and the crank to 12 o'clock.. low and behold, looks just like the pic! (lobes)

Pretty much got it covered now.. Just need to get more practice on removing the rocker arms, compressing the springs etc.

Great install guide

Highly recommend this kit for anyone doing cams!

hammeron

hey thanks very much. the cool thing about cams is although the
job is certainly challenging, it's still doable for the average highly
motivated DIY'r who has the tools, time and a dry place to work
on the vehicle.

stealth_GT

No problem

Been waiting to do this mod for some time, just never had the right chance to because of other mods taking priority...