Was wondering..do all the Long tubes make you remove the studs in the heads to install headers?

 

I have Pypes headers. I kept all the studs except for on the driver side where you need bolts on cyl 7 upper and lower and on just the top of cyl 8. IMO, studs and crush type locknuts are way better than bolts.

 

This is what I did as well

 

I was planning on getting the pypes..So i guess thats not to bad..just the install is annoying enough to do on these cars..Just having to remove studs just makes ita bigger pain in the ***.

 

I keep getting exhaust leaks from my headers and i have studs and bolts.

 

I did the same as timmbo. With a 13mm flexhead racheting tool the install is so much easier. Trust me buy the $15 wrench.

 

After recently having mine put on and getting to assist, here are some very good notes,

Driver side:

1. Take the motor mount loose from the top (single nut near fender well).

2. Take the valve cover off (trust me, it's easier with it out of the way).

3.Take the studs completely out. (the studs have a hex head on them and you should be able to get a 6-point socket or ratchet-wrench on them)

4. Take the 3-4 bolts out of the aluminum engine mount pad and remove it(this bolts to the motor mount and block)

Passenger side:

1. Same as drivers side steps 1,3,4.

2. Take the AC compressor loose (trust me, it's 3 bolts and it helps you with the front header studs)

3. Remove battery and battery tray (3 long bolts hold the tray in...you have to remove it to get the valve cover off)

4. Take the valve cover off.

5. Take the 5 bolts out of the engine mount pad and remove it.

Transmission:

1. Take the one bolt out of the bottom of the transmission mount.


Here is my .02,

By removing the manifold studs, you can about 1-1 1/4in of additional room. On the drivers side, be prepared to trim the stud on the 3rd cylinder from the front. The bend in the Pypes tubing is to sharp to get the stud started.

About half of my studs came out with the nuts still on them. Please soak all the nuts/studs in penetrating oil before reassembly. You can remove all 8 nuts/studs from the engine bay (4 nuts/studs per side on top). I was able to break the nuts loose with a box-end wrench and a little oomph.

You will have to put the headers in from the bottom. So please sure you have plenty of clearance to get them in. I did not need any O2 extenders for my set. I was able to get them reconnected without any issues.

The Pypes headers come with new gaskets. I opted to use the new gaskets and have had 0 issues with them leaking with the factory studs/nuts.



That is all.