Add another 5r55s trans that took a crap with F/I
#121
The 4R70 Tranny is the better choice for sure for certain applications.
If your going to run the Crap out of your's.
If your going to Drag-Race it a lot.
The 5R55s just will not hold up for constant Abuse.
That's not an opinion but based on those that have the 5R55s.
I have the TCI Super Street Fighter with the Circle-D Custom Billet Converter.
I have had zero issues with it so far.
But I can tell you I try my best to not do the things with it that I know cause issues/failures.
Terry
If your going to run the Crap out of your's.
If your going to Drag-Race it a lot.
The 5R55s just will not hold up for constant Abuse.
That's not an opinion but based on those that have the 5R55s.
I have the TCI Super Street Fighter with the Circle-D Custom Billet Converter.
I have had zero issues with it so far.
But I can tell you I try my best to not do the things with it that I know cause issues/failures.
Terry
The preventative measures you do will keep the tranny alive. Keep it up and keep telling people to not drive their high horsepower cars like they're stolen. Stuff breaks when you do that.
#122
I wish the 55r5 would last a little better. I'm only running 15 psi with stock heads and cams at 565 rwhp and tq. I can add a lot more power to this car and based on research and opinion, the 4r70 series will be better suit for my application.
The preventative measures you do will keep the tranny alive. Keep it up and keep telling people to not drive their high horsepower cars like they're stolen. Stuff breaks when you do that.
The preventative measures you do will keep the tranny alive. Keep it up and keep telling people to not drive their high horsepower cars like they're stolen. Stuff breaks when you do that.
It's not that the TCI Super Street Fighter is a crappy tranny.
It is just that it cannot stand up to constant Abuse.
The internals even though up-graded can only be so large.
I think once we pass the 500 RWHP & Trq. the 5R55s if Raced or Abused on a regular basis is just not capable of handling it.
I mainly drive mine and try to always keep in mind not to Abruptly floor it while in 5th gear.
Not always an easy thing to remember when you get in a position to have to pass someone immediately.
Terry
Last edited by tigerhonaker; 11-24-2012 at 02:16 AM.
#124
Yes if one had say a TCI Ratchet Shifter that would be the better way.
(Time permitting)
I think in most cases what actually takes place though is the following.
Your driving along in 5th gear.
And all of a sudden you run upon a situation where you need to accelerate, (Instantly).
Of course what takes place is you slam the throttle to the floor.
Trans. shifts instantly down and if you are going slow enough at that point It will shift down multiple gears instantly.
Bad news for Mustangs that have 500 or more RWHP & Trq.
The TCI will do the downshift/downshifts instantly but unfortunately all it takes is one to many times and there goes the Trans, broke.
The next comment I will make is this on the TCI or any built 5R55s tranny.
They work very well shifting up through the gears.
They work very well just driving with them in a normal manner.
But, they just cannot take constant Drag-Racing or really-really frequent instant down-shifting through multiple gears.
In my case I leave mine in D, (Drive) all the time.
If I am going to pass someone or just mess around I do the following.
1st push down sort of fast and the tranny will drop to 4th gear.
Then if your speed is great enough the tranny cannot go into 3rd gear when you floor it.
Same thing applies if you were going slower you simply push throttle to get it to the lowest gear.
Then floor it and let it shift up through the gears.
The one thing that is a must is the following.
(The Custom Tune)
If a person does not have that from one of the performance-shops that races or has raced with the built TCI transmission.
You are, (Screwed) as more than likely the TCI will not hold up long with High HP/Trq. applications.
In my case I have a Custom Tune from a Shop that Raced with the TCI Super Street Fighter transmissions.
They also ran the same Circle-D Custom Billet Converter I have.
My tranny will not shift into 5th gear if left in Drive if I go WOT at a Drag-Strip or on the Street.
It is part of my TUNE.
The shift RPM is set so high as to not let it go into 5th gear in the 1/4 mile.
By the same token driving mine on the street.
It has specific RPM/MPH shift points.
Example, mine will not shift into 5th gear until like 60-62 MPH.
(If shifter is in Drive position or Manually shifing it)
Terry
#125
I gave the new converter a trial by fire today, by doing a few "hooliganish" takeoff maneuvers and such. This thing RIPS!
It's a completely different power delivery compared to the TCI I had. The TCI would slip up to about 4k, and then suddenly grab and make the tires go up in smoke. This Dynamic TC goes up to about 3k rpm, when you start feeling the rear end of the car get all squirelly. You give it a bit more gas, and there's the tire smoke. You feel there's a lot more torque going to the tires earlier in the rpm range. It's a more controllable stall grab, but it still weird, nonetheless. Sometimes you don't even realize you've lost traction until you hear the engine's rpms climb, yet you're still traveling at pretty much the same speed. A bit dangerous if you're not ready for it.
By the way, I forgot to mention the specs of this converter from Dynamic.
It's a triple disk, billet unit. About 3,200 stall speed.
Something I didn't know about converters was that the stall speed is determined by the engine's power. So I oredered this one at a lower stall than the TCI since I plan to add Brenspeed's B326 stroker block next year. This converter was made for that future power level in mind.
More info about Dynamic converters can be found here.
It's a completely different power delivery compared to the TCI I had. The TCI would slip up to about 4k, and then suddenly grab and make the tires go up in smoke. This Dynamic TC goes up to about 3k rpm, when you start feeling the rear end of the car get all squirelly. You give it a bit more gas, and there's the tire smoke. You feel there's a lot more torque going to the tires earlier in the rpm range. It's a more controllable stall grab, but it still weird, nonetheless. Sometimes you don't even realize you've lost traction until you hear the engine's rpms climb, yet you're still traveling at pretty much the same speed. A bit dangerous if you're not ready for it.
By the way, I forgot to mention the specs of this converter from Dynamic.
It's a triple disk, billet unit. About 3,200 stall speed.
Something I didn't know about converters was that the stall speed is determined by the engine's power. So I oredered this one at a lower stall than the TCI since I plan to add Brenspeed's B326 stroker block next year. This converter was made for that future power level in mind.
More info about Dynamic converters can be found here.
#126
Congrads. on your New Billet converter.
Terry
Terry
I gave the new converter a trial by fire
today, by doing a few "hooliganish" takeoff maneuvers and such. This thing RIPS!
It's a completely different power delivery compared to the TCI I had. The TCI would slip up to about 4k, and then suddenly grab and make the tires go up in smoke. This Dynamic TC goes up to about 3k rpm, when you start feeling the rear end of the car get all squirelly. You give it a bit more gas, and there's the tire smoke. You feel there's a lot more torque going to the tires earlier in the rpm range. It's a more controllable stall grab, but it still weird, nonetheless. Sometimes you don't even realize you've lost traction until you hear the engine's rpms climb, yet you're still traveling at pretty much the same speed. A bit dangerous if you're not ready for it.
By the way, I forgot to mention the specs of this converter from Dynamic.
It's a triple disk, billet unit. About 3,200 stall speed.
Something I didn't know about converters was that the stall speed is determined by the engine's power. So I oredered this one at a lower stall than the TCI since I plan to add Brenspeed's B326 stroker block next year. This converter was made for that future power level in mind.
More info about Dynamic converters can be found here.
today, by doing a few "hooliganish" takeoff maneuvers and such. This thing RIPS!
It's a completely different power delivery compared to the TCI I had. The TCI would slip up to about 4k, and then suddenly grab and make the tires go up in smoke. This Dynamic TC goes up to about 3k rpm, when you start feeling the rear end of the car get all squirelly. You give it a bit more gas, and there's the tire smoke. You feel there's a lot more torque going to the tires earlier in the rpm range. It's a more controllable stall grab, but it still weird, nonetheless. Sometimes you don't even realize you've lost traction until you hear the engine's rpms climb, yet you're still traveling at pretty much the same speed. A bit dangerous if you're not ready for it.
By the way, I forgot to mention the specs of this converter from Dynamic.
It's a triple disk, billet unit. About 3,200 stall speed.
Something I didn't know about converters was that the stall speed is determined by the engine's power. So I oredered this one at a lower stall than the TCI since I plan to add Brenspeed's B326 stroker block next year. This converter was made for that future power level in mind.
More info about Dynamic converters can be found here.
#128
#129
I know this thread should be left to rest it's final days, but I figured you guys might be interested in seeing what went wrong with my factory transmission. The guy that's going to be rebuilding it finally got the time to open it up and found that everything looked OK. Well... everything except this:
Since he's already halfway through installing the rebuild kit, he couldn't show me exactly where this thing goes, but I think it's called a "sprag" or "mechanical diode" or something. He said that, as he was disassembling the innards of the trans, this thing basically fell apart on his hands when he got it out. That "ladder"-looking ring you see is made of plastic...
The bands, clutches, and everything else looked practically new, but since they were included in the rebuild kit, we will be replacing them. There was no metal or clutch residue on the fluid pan.
He suspects it may have been a factory defect.
Since he's already halfway through installing the rebuild kit, he couldn't show me exactly where this thing goes, but I think it's called a "sprag" or "mechanical diode" or something. He said that, as he was disassembling the innards of the trans, this thing basically fell apart on his hands when he got it out. That "ladder"-looking ring you see is made of plastic...
The bands, clutches, and everything else looked practically new, but since they were included in the rebuild kit, we will be replacing them. There was no metal or clutch residue on the fluid pan.
He suspects it may have been a factory defect.
#130
I know this thread should be left to rest it's final days, but I figured you guys might be interested in seeing what went wrong with my factory transmission. The guy that's going to be rebuilding it finally got the time to open it up and found that everything looked OK. Well... everything except this:
Since he's already halfway through installing the rebuild kit, he couldn't show me exactly where this thing goes, but I think it's called a "sprag" or "mechanical diode" or something. He said that, as he was disassembling the innards of the trans, this thing basically fell apart on his hands when he got it out. That "ladder"-looking ring you see is made of plastic...
The bands, clutches, and everything else looked practically new, but since they were included in the rebuild kit, we will be replacing them. There was no metal or clutch residue on the fluid pan.
He suspects it may have been a factory defect.
Since he's already halfway through installing the rebuild kit, he couldn't show me exactly where this thing goes, but I think it's called a "sprag" or "mechanical diode" or something. He said that, as he was disassembling the innards of the trans, this thing basically fell apart on his hands when he got it out. That "ladder"-looking ring you see is made of plastic...
The bands, clutches, and everything else looked practically new, but since they were included in the rebuild kit, we will be replacing them. There was no metal or clutch residue on the fluid pan.
He suspects it may have been a factory defect.