Possible Throttle Position Sensor Issue
10-30-2011, 07:10 PM
#1
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Possible Throttle Position Sensor Issue
The other day my battery died on my 2005 GT. It was the original battery and I wasn't surprised that it wasn't holding a charge anymore. Replaced the battery with a Duralast Gold and everything was great. The next day, I hopped in my car started it up, it warmed up, I took off and as soon as I shifted in to 2nd gear it shut off and activated failsafe mode. I shut the car off, let it sit, started up and drove to my destination with no problems. Left my destination and upon shifting in to 2nd gear, back to fail safe mode. I pulled over and unplugged the battery, MIL went off, reset the gas pedal, and drove slowly to a friends house.
I read the codes and got the following:
061B
2106
151A
Cleared the codes. We drove to the gas station where I filled up and then we drove off and again, as soon as I hit 2nd gear it went in to fail safe mode with the same codes. I reset the codes, dropped him off and continued driving for about another 20 minutes to see if i could feel/hear anything.
Everything seemed normal. I came home, looked up the codes and figured it's probably relearning the car since I disconnected the battery and with 39k miles I should probably clean the throttle body and MAF. Did that today and it was a little dirty and to the point where I would suspect that it could get sticky for the plate. put it back on, reconnected everything and then a few hours later I drove to BestBuy about 3 miles from my house. During the drive I noticed the TB seemed to be getting caught and it would rev up and down on its own and while idling would be between 2-3k. A blip of the throttle usually fixed this but not always.
I haven't had any codes, lights, or failsafes since that one night but seem to have more problems with the throttle now. My guess is that the TPS is going and needs to be replaced but before I spend $60 on a new one, wanted to get any more input for testing other components. I unfortunately do not have an SCT for data logging right now. Thanks for any help.
*** I now recall that below the recirc valve (EGR port) in the plenum there were a few drops of oil/gasoline. I did not drive the car or turn it on at all today before cleaning it. I also have black residue on the resonator tips and on start up can sometimes smell/see a few drops of what I suspect is gas on the ground behind the car. I have not gotten a rich code but I suspect the car thinks its getting more air than it is and is resulting in a higher F/A ratio. I also noticed before, my gas mileage wasn't what I was expecting it to be. Could this all be the result of a bad TPS?
I read the codes and got the following:
061B
2106
151A
Cleared the codes. We drove to the gas station where I filled up and then we drove off and again, as soon as I hit 2nd gear it went in to fail safe mode with the same codes. I reset the codes, dropped him off and continued driving for about another 20 minutes to see if i could feel/hear anything.
Everything seemed normal. I came home, looked up the codes and figured it's probably relearning the car since I disconnected the battery and with 39k miles I should probably clean the throttle body and MAF. Did that today and it was a little dirty and to the point where I would suspect that it could get sticky for the plate. put it back on, reconnected everything and then a few hours later I drove to BestBuy about 3 miles from my house. During the drive I noticed the TB seemed to be getting caught and it would rev up and down on its own and while idling would be between 2-3k. A blip of the throttle usually fixed this but not always.
I haven't had any codes, lights, or failsafes since that one night but seem to have more problems with the throttle now. My guess is that the TPS is going and needs to be replaced but before I spend $60 on a new one, wanted to get any more input for testing other components. I unfortunately do not have an SCT for data logging right now. Thanks for any help.
*** I now recall that below the recirc valve (EGR port) in the plenum there were a few drops of oil/gasoline. I did not drive the car or turn it on at all today before cleaning it. I also have black residue on the resonator tips and on start up can sometimes smell/see a few drops of what I suspect is gas on the ground behind the car. I have not gotten a rich code but I suspect the car thinks its getting more air than it is and is resulting in a higher F/A ratio. I also noticed before, my gas mileage wasn't what I was expecting it to be. Could this all be the result of a bad TPS?
Last edited by JCON; 10-30-2011 at 11:02 PM.
10-31-2011, 07:01 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Those drips from the tailpipe is condensation and not gas; quite normal until the engine and exhaust heat up. I can't say what the issue is that you're having. Keep us posted.
10-31-2011, 08:55 PM
#3
If it is a TPS and you decide to replace just the sensor and not the entire TB make sure you take a static reference voltage from your original before you disconnect it so you can adjust the new one to the same.
11-01-2011, 07:29 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Delaware
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Found this on Modded Mustang:
I will try it later today/this week and report back
Tuning the TPS
When you tune up your Mustang (wires, plugs, timing, etc.), the checking/adjustment (if needed) of the TPS should always be included. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a pin, and a voltmeter that can read low voltages accurately. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen the two screws holding on the TPS, (The screws can be very stubborn, so make sure you have a good quality screw driver that fits snug and has a long handle for lots of torque, or you might strip the heads) just enough to able to swivel the TPS with force.
2) Pierce the "GREEN" wire with the pin and hook the positive (+) lead from the voltmeter to it.
3) Ground the negative (-) lead from the voltmeter. Use a good ground, like the engine or other grounded metal source.
4) Turn your ignition key to the run position, but do not start the vehicle
5) Rotate the TPS until you achieve .98 to .99 Volts (For stock or slightly modified engines).
6) Tighten the screws on the TPS and recheck.
Troubleshooting
If the maximum or minimum voltage you can obtain is close to the above recommended voltage setting (.98-.99), but the TPS just won't turn enough to get it right, you will have to modify the TPS. If you get a very low voltage reading, make sure you have an accurate voltmeter and your connections are solid, if so, you need to replace your TPS. If you have no voltage, you have a bad connection or a bad voltmeter. Rarely, if never, will a TPS be in such bad shape, especially if your car still runs good."
When you tune up your Mustang (wires, plugs, timing, etc.), the checking/adjustment (if needed) of the TPS should always be included. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a pin, and a voltmeter that can read low voltages accurately. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen the two screws holding on the TPS, (The screws can be very stubborn, so make sure you have a good quality screw driver that fits snug and has a long handle for lots of torque, or you might strip the heads) just enough to able to swivel the TPS with force.
2) Pierce the "GREEN" wire with the pin and hook the positive (+) lead from the voltmeter to it.
3) Ground the negative (-) lead from the voltmeter. Use a good ground, like the engine or other grounded metal source.
4) Turn your ignition key to the run position, but do not start the vehicle
5) Rotate the TPS until you achieve .98 to .99 Volts (For stock or slightly modified engines).
6) Tighten the screws on the TPS and recheck.
Troubleshooting
If the maximum or minimum voltage you can obtain is close to the above recommended voltage setting (.98-.99), but the TPS just won't turn enough to get it right, you will have to modify the TPS. If you get a very low voltage reading, make sure you have an accurate voltmeter and your connections are solid, if so, you need to replace your TPS. If you have no voltage, you have a bad connection or a bad voltmeter. Rarely, if never, will a TPS be in such bad shape, especially if your car still runs good."
11-26-2011, 07:51 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Delaware
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I did the above on the old TB and all parameters were within spec.
Replaced the whole throttle body with an 07+ model (new sensor style). Car ran great for a few weeks and then this past week I hit fail safe 3 times an threw P2106 and P061B.
Voltage is reading correctly. The only engine mods that I know of are the Mac Boomtubes, the ported and polished TB (codes came up before an after getting this), and I removed the rubber piece that extends from the factory airbox. None of these should cause an issue.
Most of the fail safes came when it was raining, although the latest one came while it was 70* and sunny and several days after it rained. I have not checked to see if there is water on the passenger floor but I thought that was a problem with coupes (?) as my last vert did not experience this issue.
I reset the code and no issues at all in a few days now. I have stomped it to see if I can get it to do it again and had no problems.
The previous owner says she didnt do anything internally to the engine and its not tuned.
I am hoping to get the SCT iTSX and tune it next year, I assume a new table could increase the load parameters and prevent this code from happening.
It is a 2005 GT manual with 40,000 miles on it. Thanks for any help with this.
Replaced the whole throttle body with an 07+ model (new sensor style). Car ran great for a few weeks and then this past week I hit fail safe 3 times an threw P2106 and P061B.
Voltage is reading correctly. The only engine mods that I know of are the Mac Boomtubes, the ported and polished TB (codes came up before an after getting this), and I removed the rubber piece that extends from the factory airbox. None of these should cause an issue.
Most of the fail safes came when it was raining, although the latest one came while it was 70* and sunny and several days after it rained. I have not checked to see if there is water on the passenger floor but I thought that was a problem with coupes (?) as my last vert did not experience this issue.
I reset the code and no issues at all in a few days now. I have stomped it to see if I can get it to do it again and had no problems.
The previous owner says she didnt do anything internally to the engine and its not tuned.
I am hoping to get the SCT iTSX and tune it next year, I assume a new table could increase the load parameters and prevent this code from happening.
It is a 2005 GT manual with 40,000 miles on it. Thanks for any help with this.
11-27-2011, 04:15 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Looks like the culprit was the dreaded water leak/drain backup. It was unbelievably clogged. I have my office parking lot to thank for that as my car isn't anywhere near trees at home in my driveway but the office lot is covered in leaves and pine needles.
No water marks on the grommets for the wiring but the floor was soaking wet under the mat. I pulled all of it up and left the top down today (70* outside). I also pulled the padding and am drying it right now. Onmy hour ride home after finding the water, I turned the floor vents on high heat. Everything in the SJB and footwell seem dry now, just the padding left. Will report on success later. I did wash the car on Friday and I hit fail safe twice since then with no codes.
No water marks on the grommets for the wiring but the floor was soaking wet under the mat. I pulled all of it up and left the top down today (70* outside). I also pulled the padding and am drying it right now. Onmy hour ride home after finding the water, I turned the floor vents on high heat. Everything in the SJB and footwell seem dry now, just the padding left. Will report on success later. I did wash the car on Friday and I hit fail safe twice since then with no codes.
Last edited by JCON; 11-27-2011 at 04:18 PM.
11-29-2011, 06:59 PM
#8
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Ok so that drain wasn't my issue. After a full day of rain here, I decided to look in the footwell again and to my surprise I found water. I took the interior panels off and tracked the water as far as I could see. It looked to be coming from the area where the door jamb is. So looked closer and upon further inspection, found two holes and an odd shaped weather strip on the passenger side. Sure enough I could see water running down the strip on both sides and through the inside of the strip. I took a towel and wiped it down and then held the towel firmly against the base of the weather strip and it stopped dripping near the SJB. Removed the towel and it started dripping again. This would appear to be the issue and after I replace the weather striping, Ford part #03110 for convertibles, I will check again using a garden hose to see if the leak was fully resolved. This is one big strip from the passenger side, along the top/roof line, down the drivers side and can be bought from Ford for $207 or from here: http://www.sarad.com/productinfo.aspx?p=300595 for $168
12-06-2011, 03:36 PM
#9
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My rubber seal does have deformations in it but after today's rains, it doesn't seem that the area below the seal is wet. This leads me to believe the leak is below the windshield or in the seam itself. My local Ford dealer was nice enough to tell me they will not service it for free, the warranty is 12 months and they don't do TSB work for free.
After it stops raining I will work on taking more of the car apart until I can trace the leak to someplace and then use some type of sealant. I thought maybe it could be entering near the door jamb where the panels meet and the seams are but it appeared t be wet as water was dripping below.
After it stops raining I will work on taking more of the car apart until I can trace the leak to someplace and then use some type of sealant. I thought maybe it could be entering near the door jamb where the panels meet and the seams are but it appeared t be wet as water was dripping below.
