Quick Question about Clutch Install
Just a couple questions, the car is an 05 GT.
First something not really in any guides, when replacing the slave cylinder what fluid or bleeding do you have to do?
And when replacing the clutch should we drain the fluid? If so what type and where is it added?
I have done my T-5 and am just unsure of the hydrolic clutch set up and if when pulling the driveshaft fluid will come out like the T-5.
Just fluid questions, Thank you in advance.
First something not really in any guides, when replacing the slave cylinder what fluid or bleeding do you have to do?
And when replacing the clutch should we drain the fluid? If so what type and where is it added?
I have done my T-5 and am just unsure of the hydrolic clutch set up and if when pulling the driveshaft fluid will come out like the T-5.
Just fluid questions, Thank you in advance.
Bench bleed the new slave right before you install it. Pop open a new bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, put the line from the slave into it and completely compress the slave, then release it slowly and let it fill with fluid. This will make bleeding it much easier.
When you disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave to the reservoir, cap the line coming from the reservoir to prevent dumping your brake fluid all over the floor. I stuffed a piece of shop towel into the plastic cap that comes on the new slave and put it on that line. It will seep slowly, but is still better than just letting the brake fluid pour out.
Don't drain the fluid unless it's absolutely filthy and in need of changing. The clutch runs off the same master cylinder as the brakes, so you will be stuck bleeding the clutch AND all four brakes if you let the fluid drain. Just top off the fluid that drains out.
To bleed the clutch, remove the cap to the master cylinder and fill nearly to the top with DOT 3 brake fluid. SLOWLY pump the clutch pedal up and down about 10 times. Each pump should take about 15-20 seconds. Top off the master cylinder if necessary. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times with 30 minute breaks in between and your clutch will completely bleed out.
Good luck changing the clutch. It's LOTS of fun.
When you disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave to the reservoir, cap the line coming from the reservoir to prevent dumping your brake fluid all over the floor. I stuffed a piece of shop towel into the plastic cap that comes on the new slave and put it on that line. It will seep slowly, but is still better than just letting the brake fluid pour out.
Don't drain the fluid unless it's absolutely filthy and in need of changing. The clutch runs off the same master cylinder as the brakes, so you will be stuck bleeding the clutch AND all four brakes if you let the fluid drain. Just top off the fluid that drains out.
To bleed the clutch, remove the cap to the master cylinder and fill nearly to the top with DOT 3 brake fluid. SLOWLY pump the clutch pedal up and down about 10 times. Each pump should take about 15-20 seconds. Top off the master cylinder if necessary. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times with 30 minute breaks in between and your clutch will completely bleed out.
Good luck changing the clutch. It's LOTS of fun.
Thanks for the advice, doesn't sound to complicated. I am going to write up a guide for those who don't even know if they can tackle it. The swap in my Mach 1 took me about 6 hours and it was the first time ive done it, so this should hopefully go smooth, but if it doesn't it just makes it more fun
Last edited by Mach1BBFun; Feb 13, 2012 at 10:47 PM.
It will take you much, much longer than any other clutch. If you haven't already, read the sticky thread on installing a mcleod rst. The s197 gt with the 3650 transmission is a VERY tricky beast when it comes to clutch swaps. If you run into trouble, I can help. I've done this swap twice and it was a pain both times. Just pm me or respond to this thread and I'll keep an eye on it.
More tips:
To get to the top 2 transmission bolts, remove the battery and battery tray and go in from the engine bay. I attached a small diameter pvc pipe to a ratchet to get to the top driver side bolt.
To get the transmission to clear the bellhousing, drop the entire K-member about 2 inches.
While you're in there, replace the pilot bearing. It's cheap and you might as well replace everything you can while you have the tranny out.
More tips:
To get to the top 2 transmission bolts, remove the battery and battery tray and go in from the engine bay. I attached a small diameter pvc pipe to a ratchet to get to the top driver side bolt.
To get the transmission to clear the bellhousing, drop the entire K-member about 2 inches.
While you're in there, replace the pilot bearing. It's cheap and you might as well replace everything you can while you have the tranny out.
I'm interested to know if you will have to lower the K-member or not? Seems some people just clock the transmission to the left or right and can get it out. I know I sure would like some tips because before long I will have to do this myself as well.
If you are 100% sure that ALL of the transmission to bellhousing bolts are out and the starter is completely removed, then use a prybar to gently break the tranny free from the block. Do small increments going around the mating surface at every point you can reach.
You can get it out that way. In fact, I did once. It still takes a ton of maneuvering and finesse and it's honestly still easier to drop the K-member. Not to mention, getting it out that way is much easier than getting it in that way. My advice is to just drop the K-member. It will ultimately save you time and hassle.
Well just to update you guys we got the tranny out....kind of... Not far enough for it to clear though, the car has a Saleen supercharger. I know to drop the K member but the car needed to be back on the road the next morning. So.... We cut our losses after getting the tranny almost out and bolted everything back up.
My question is - how the hell do you get to the slave cylinder line, there was no way we could get our hands up there let alone a wrench.
It went smooth other than the bell housing bolts had never been removed and the car has 80,000 miles on it..... This made turning 8 bolts a not so simple task.
So if time allots I would definitely tackle it again as we just really needed the car back together and some sleep. The only snag was how to get to that hydraulic line, other than that it wasn't too bad.
Thanks for the advice once again.
My question is - how the hell do you get to the slave cylinder line, there was no way we could get our hands up there let alone a wrench.
It went smooth other than the bell housing bolts had never been removed and the car has 80,000 miles on it..... This made turning 8 bolts a not so simple task.
So if time allots I would definitely tackle it again as we just really needed the car back together and some sleep. The only snag was how to get to that hydraulic line, other than that it wasn't too bad.
Thanks for the advice once again.


