Hi, have a 2005 mustang GT thinking of adding a supercharger, trying to get around 550-600 rwhp, heard need to do some internal work,
will a rotating assembly do the job without boring the engine or need to overhaul the engine?

Thank you for any positive input

 

the safest, most reliable thing to do is to either get fully forged internals or buy an aluminator block

 

Adding a rotating assembly is overhauling the engine. You may be able to get away with not boring the block, it depends on how many miles are on the current engine but with the miles on a 2005 you most likely will need to bore the block.

You will need to buy the rotating assembly, buy rings, bearings, gaskets, oil pump with billet gears, ARP head and main studs, pay someone to do the machine work, pay someone to assemble the shortblock, pay someone to pull the old motor, pay someone to have the heads checked out and replace anything needed, pay someone to put the new engine fully together and install it.

Then you will need to get it tuned for whatever FI you are going to use to achieve 550-600 hp. All together you're talking about $7000-$8000, not counting what your FI costs.


Earl

 

yes! deffinitly upgrade to forged internals if you don't already have them. if your motor didn't come with a supercharger then its not built for it. upgrading to a forged rotating assembly will increase your motors strenght to handle that boost. yea you could get away with your stock rotating assembly with a supercharger but your pistion rings won't handle it causing bad ring blow by pushing oil threw your PVC into your intake and causeing a lot of extra wear on your motor. stroking it wouldn't be a bad idea eather and deffinitly lower your compression ratio for boost. or at very least upgrade your pistion rings

 

hopfully your mechically inclined to do this work yourself or the cost is going to be rediculous

 

Look into the B302 from Brenspeed. From the research I've done, it's one of the best kits out there as far as complete-ness and what not. Either that or buy a full aluminator block.

 

Thank you all for the quick response, have 46K miles on it, it's a Roush stage one convertible, looked at B302 from Brenspeed and I like it, I live in Tampa Fl and I'm not mechanically inclined, anybody knows a good shop down here to get an honest estimate,
called a machine shop E L T and he quote me around $10000 to overhaul the engine including boring it (that's a lot), thx in advance

 

A shortblock like the B302 is definitely the way to go when comparing it to farming out work for rebuilding your stock motor. And, you'll have the added benefit of driving it longer and having a spare motor to sell or hold on to.

FWIW, Brenspeed recommends the stock head gaskets and TTY bolts on their B302, and they claim it's capable of supporting 800-900hp. I'm at close to (if not at) 500whp using the stock oil pump, gaskets, and bolts, and no issues so far. Have about 6000 miles on the engine.

 

I have a 2007 427R. Roush installs the M90 on the stock engine that boosts power from 315 to 440. My CAI install with slightly smaller pulley added about 25 additional ponies for a total of 460 flywheel horsepower. Most engineers state that the 4.6L engine can take up to 475 RWHP on stock internals reliably, however anything over this creates extreme stress on the stock powdered metal connecting rods. The pistons are slightly stronger but detonation can shatter them. The power range that you are looking at will require a new short block assembly. Check VMP, as they are in Florida and can offer suggestions and a good, safe tune.

 

Even if you intent to go to higher powers on the stock block, do not do so until you're ready to replace the block. Some get away with 400+rwhp for years, while others, like myself, blow their engine on 435 crank horsepower. It all comes down to the tune, how you use it, and a little bit of luck .