5r55 Issues
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 17
From: TEXAS
5r55 Issues
I’m seeing if anyone has had a similar problem or can give me some advice. I have the auto 5r55 which had some shifting issues where it will rev up while in drive but move slowly. I’ve already changed the fluid, solenoid pack, rebuilt the transmission, and had the servo fix however the problem still persists. The only codes I have that are transmission related are P0967 P0798 and P0778. I believe the solenoid pack we used was from Wit transmission so I’m not sure on the quality of it but is it possible I was just given a defective one? Any advice is appreciated.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Could be one of three things.
1) Low trans fluid. How much did you put in? A simple valve body removal will require you to refill up to 8 quarts. A completly empty system I believe is about 12q. How did you verify the fluid level?
2) The connector/connector harness for the solenoid pack has issues. Check the wire loom to make sure it's not pinched anywhere or has any exposed wires. When you reconnected the round plug and put the 8 or 10 mm bolt into the connector, hopefully you didn't crank down on the bolt. It only takes like 50in/lbs of torque that's 50 INCH lbs. If you over torqued it, you could have cracked the connector or the solenoid pack. You also u want to make sure the connections are dry. If either O-ring on the connector is leaking, you could have trans fluid mucking things up. So, after you inspect for pinched or exposed wires, remove the connector and inspect it for cracks or wetness.
3) Dud solenoid pack. Generally speaking, rebuilt or offbrand solenoid packs are rarely reliable for any vehicle, let alone the finicky 5r55s. If both of the two items above are ok, you'll need to drop the pan and replace the solenoid pack. Use only MEW Motorcraft or MEW Bosch brand. Bosch is the OEM for Ford so you'll save yourself $ by buying the Bosch. Its' the identical part without the Ford Logo and PN on it. This is where I bought mine from. SONNAX is the ONLY aftermarket modifier of solenoid packs and valve bodies that I trust... do your research, you'll see why.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25431417255...gAAOSwyu1dPzqt
If you don't like ebay, you can also get new Bosch from here: https://www.cascadetransmissionparts...noidblock.aspx I've used Cascade Transmission Parts before.. Excellent customer service.
P.S. in looking at WitTrans https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=...asevb&part=420 i wanna say i've seen them used before...and if they are indeed the same company I've come across, It was not a good outcome when I pulled the solenoid pack from the tranny within 6 months of install.... Is it a green circuit board with solenoid coils that are exposed (no caps on the solenoids where there is a screw) ? If so, it's junk.
1) Low trans fluid. How much did you put in? A simple valve body removal will require you to refill up to 8 quarts. A completly empty system I believe is about 12q. How did you verify the fluid level?
2) The connector/connector harness for the solenoid pack has issues. Check the wire loom to make sure it's not pinched anywhere or has any exposed wires. When you reconnected the round plug and put the 8 or 10 mm bolt into the connector, hopefully you didn't crank down on the bolt. It only takes like 50in/lbs of torque that's 50 INCH lbs. If you over torqued it, you could have cracked the connector or the solenoid pack. You also u want to make sure the connections are dry. If either O-ring on the connector is leaking, you could have trans fluid mucking things up. So, after you inspect for pinched or exposed wires, remove the connector and inspect it for cracks or wetness.
3) Dud solenoid pack. Generally speaking, rebuilt or offbrand solenoid packs are rarely reliable for any vehicle, let alone the finicky 5r55s. If both of the two items above are ok, you'll need to drop the pan and replace the solenoid pack. Use only MEW Motorcraft or MEW Bosch brand. Bosch is the OEM for Ford so you'll save yourself $ by buying the Bosch. Its' the identical part without the Ford Logo and PN on it. This is where I bought mine from. SONNAX is the ONLY aftermarket modifier of solenoid packs and valve bodies that I trust... do your research, you'll see why.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25431417255...gAAOSwyu1dPzqt
If you don't like ebay, you can also get new Bosch from here: https://www.cascadetransmissionparts...noidblock.aspx I've used Cascade Transmission Parts before.. Excellent customer service.
P.S. in looking at WitTrans https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=...asevb&part=420 i wanna say i've seen them used before...and if they are indeed the same company I've come across, It was not a good outcome when I pulled the solenoid pack from the tranny within 6 months of install.... Is it a green circuit board with solenoid coils that are exposed (no caps on the solenoids where there is a screw) ? If so, it's junk.
Last edited by Derf00; Jul 2, 2021 at 12:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 17
From: TEXAS
Could be one of three things.
1) Low trans fluid. How much did you put in? A simple valve body removal will require you to refill up to 8 quarts. A completly empty system I believe is about 12q. How did you verify the fluid level?
2) The connector/connector harness for the solenoid pack has issues. Check the wire loom to make sure it's not pinched anywhere or has any exposed wires. When you reconnected the round plug and put the 8 or 10 mm bolt into the connector, hopefully you didn't crank down on the bolt. It only takes like 50in/lbs of torque that's 50 INCH lbs. If you over torqued it, you could have cracked the connector or the solenoid pack. You also u want to make sure the connections are dry. If either O-ring on the connector is leaking, you could have trans fluid mucking things up. So, after you inspect for pinched or exposed wires, remove the connector and inspect it for cracks or wetness.
3) Dud solenoid pack. Generally speaking, rebuilt or offbrand solenoid packs are rarely reliable for any vehicle, let alone the finicky 5r55s. If both of the two items above are ok, you'll need to drop the pan and replace the solenoid pack. Use only MEW Motorcraft or MEW Bosch brand. Bosch is the OEM for Ford so you'll save yourself $ by buying the Bosch. Its' the identical part without the Ford Logo and PN on it. This is where I bought mine from. SONNAX is the ONLY aftermarket modifier of solenoid packs and valve bodies that I trust... do your research, you'll see why.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25431417255...gAAOSwyu1dPzqt
If you don't like ebay, you can also get new Bosch from here: https://www.cascadetransmissionparts...noidblock.aspx I've used Cascade Transmission Parts before.. Excellent customer service.
P.S. in looking at WitTrans https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=...asevb&part=420 i wanna say i've seen them used before...and if they are indeed the same company I've come across, It was not a good outcome when I pulled the solenoid pack from the tranny within 6 months of install.... Is it a green circuit board with solenoid coils that are exposed (no caps on the solenoids where there is a screw) ? If so, it's junk.
1) Low trans fluid. How much did you put in? A simple valve body removal will require you to refill up to 8 quarts. A completly empty system I believe is about 12q. How did you verify the fluid level?
2) The connector/connector harness for the solenoid pack has issues. Check the wire loom to make sure it's not pinched anywhere or has any exposed wires. When you reconnected the round plug and put the 8 or 10 mm bolt into the connector, hopefully you didn't crank down on the bolt. It only takes like 50in/lbs of torque that's 50 INCH lbs. If you over torqued it, you could have cracked the connector or the solenoid pack. You also u want to make sure the connections are dry. If either O-ring on the connector is leaking, you could have trans fluid mucking things up. So, after you inspect for pinched or exposed wires, remove the connector and inspect it for cracks or wetness.
3) Dud solenoid pack. Generally speaking, rebuilt or offbrand solenoid packs are rarely reliable for any vehicle, let alone the finicky 5r55s. If both of the two items above are ok, you'll need to drop the pan and replace the solenoid pack. Use only MEW Motorcraft or MEW Bosch brand. Bosch is the OEM for Ford so you'll save yourself $ by buying the Bosch. Its' the identical part without the Ford Logo and PN on it. This is where I bought mine from. SONNAX is the ONLY aftermarket modifier of solenoid packs and valve bodies that I trust... do your research, you'll see why.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25431417255...gAAOSwyu1dPzqt
If you don't like ebay, you can also get new Bosch from here: https://www.cascadetransmissionparts...noidblock.aspx I've used Cascade Transmission Parts before.. Excellent customer service.
P.S. in looking at WitTrans https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=...asevb&part=420 i wanna say i've seen them used before...and if they are indeed the same company I've come across, It was not a good outcome when I pulled the solenoid pack from the tranny within 6 months of install.... Is it a green circuit board with solenoid coils that are exposed (no caps on the solenoids where there is a screw) ? If so, it's junk.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
I’ve done the correct fluid refill procedure and made sure it’s Mercon v as well. I’m going to check the connection later today and see if I find any issues, if not I ordered a replacement off of rock auto and hopefully the solenoid is the culprit like I believe it to be. But no it does not have exposed wires however I did buy it for around $160 so I doubt it is a quality product.
$160? Cheapest I see on their is $200
The only brand Rock Auto carries for this item that i MIGHT consider in a pinch is the Standard Motor Products brand. That's $250 though. You can get a Bosch for that price or less.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 17
From: TEXAS
I use Rock auto a lot for parts depending on what I'm looking for.
$160? Cheapest I see on their is $200
The only brand Rock Auto carries for this item that i MIGHT consider in a pinch is the Standard Motor Products brand. That's $250 though. You can get a Bosch for that price or less.
$160? Cheapest I see on their is $200
The only brand Rock Auto carries for this item that i MIGHT consider in a pinch is the Standard Motor Products brand. That's $250 though. You can get a Bosch for that price or less.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Ahh okay, yep Wit was a rebuild then for sure. I've never seen any packs last too long on modern cars from any supplier that rebuilds them. not just Wit.
Let me know how it goes with the Standard part install and resolution of your problems.
Let me know how it goes with the Standard part install and resolution of your problems.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 17
From: TEXAS
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
The slight variation in number doesn’t matter. The difference could be a supplier designation or a batch ID for the casting, etc.
The OBDll codes you got are directly related to electrical issues, not mechanical ones. That points to solenoid failure or circuit board problems provided you ruled out the harness and connector already.
The OBDll codes you got are directly related to electrical issues, not mechanical ones. That points to solenoid failure or circuit board problems provided you ruled out the harness and connector already.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 17
From: TEXAS
The slight variation in number doesn’t matter. The difference could be a supplier designation or a batch ID for the casting, etc.
The OBDll codes you got are directly related to electrical issues, not mechanical ones. That points to solenoid failure or circuit board problems provided you ruled out the harness and connector already.
The OBDll codes you got are directly related to electrical issues, not mechanical ones. That points to solenoid failure or circuit board problems provided you ruled out the harness and connector already.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
Good to hear it’s running good right now. Heat is the primary cause of failure for solenoid packs so, if it goes well for a while then fails again, it’s the brand. I know you don’t want to their that and I hope it doesn’t fail on you, just be aware. Standard (brand) at least is good for electronic ignition components so they do know a thing or two about....electronics and heat.