the ECT wasnt a code, because the temp of the water at the time of the test was not 180*. i was going to go drive it around the block today, but i cant get my fuel pump to turn on.

i jumped +12 to the pnk/blk wire at the relay, and it idled fine. so i thought it was the relay. my teacher said that all the relays that have the same pin configuration (on fords) are interchangeable. i found one under the dash and plugged it in, still nothing. so i never got around to driving it. maybe tomorrow

 

pin 22 doesnt put +12V, its only got .067, what would cause that?

 

What are you trying to test and what circuit(s) are connected to pin 22? Im away from Alldata right now

Remember voltage is electrical pressure, so, it sounds like you may have a short on that circuit as there no restriction to increase pressure (voltage build up).

And i did talk to my Ford teacher and he said that your issue isnt making sense on how the timing is retarding itself when your driving. He would need to look at it so thats all the info i could get out of him for you, sorry.

 

that really sucks.. the timing is coming around (finally advancing) but there is not enough voltage at pin 22 which goes to the fuel pump relay (the reason the fuel pump is not running) im using a breakout box, so im checking the voltage right at the connector. Would a short cause the voltage to change that far up the circuit?

Got the right ECU last night, and still wont turn the fuel pump on.

what sensors would tell the ECU to not turn the fuel pump on?

 

If the ECU does not receive a tach ref signal from the Crank or Cam sensor (on some vehicles), it will not power up the fuel pump.

Did you try jumpering the pump? And yes a short may cause that issue. I would do a voltage drop test on the feed and ground side of the fuel pump circuit.

 

yeah i can put +12 to the pnk/blk (the wire that runs to the pump) and the car will run,

is there a cam/crank sensor on our cars?

 

Hola,

Mine has a crank sensor as i have DIS. You should have a PIP thats going to be used for the tach REF signal *i think*. Double check a wiring diagram.

So now you have established theres an issue with the tach REF signal or a wiring issue, its time to pull out the DVOM and start doing some electrical tests. I have a great link to PIP and TFI testing if you need that bud.

Look at the wiring diagram to see how your 88's FP is energised with the KOEO.

Lemme know.

 

took out the EEC relay and blew the dust out of there. and now the fuel pump runs. i have no idea why. the timing at idle is bouncing around a bit, and now (after a new PIP) the timing starts at 10* and jumps down to around TDC and advances from there,(when revving)

so its getting somewhat better. Does anyone have a breakout box? I have one on my car, and i have a list of all the voltages at the pins, but im not really sure what they should be. Could someone get the voltages off their cars for me?

 

The #2 pin has 7.98V, it should either have 0 or 12 with the brake on. Does anyone know about the BOO circuit? i pulled fuses, fusible links, and the cruise control amp out and the voltage didnt change.

i think some wire is crossing a wire in the circuit, but its a confusing circuit, doesnt make a lot of sense. should the computer generate voltage? or should it recieve it?

 

I believe the BOO switch is ground switched. Ill check tomorrow. Your losing over 4v on that particular circuit so you need to do a voltage drop and see whats going on with the wiring.