Obsol3te

Ok, just got the bulk of my parts,
Headers, MAF, Injectors, TB, EGR Spacer, Underdrive Pulleys, Battery Relocation kit

ok, already put on the MAF
need to toss on the injectors tho
[ul][*] What will running a 24# injector recommended MAF do to a 19# injector car?[*] 1 3/4" BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers, Stepdad was saying im going to need to cut them so theyd fit. SHouldnt they just bolt right on replacing the shorter headers and that pipe leading from the cats? so would it just be the long tube headers then cats. I have the stock H pipe(i think).[*] Underdrive pulleys, For directions it tells me to drain the radiator... WHY IN THE HELL would you have to drain the radiator? It's not even really connected to any of it. Does this HAVE to be done?[*] Is there anything in the rubber lines leading into the tb/egr spacer. or is it just air or something? I want to replace them but dont want to touch it just yet until i found out.
[/ul]

Ok thats about it for now, thanks.

Stang Chik

1. as for the injectors.. is your engine stock? If so 24# injectors are way overkill and will probably hurt your performance. If it is stock (ie.. no upgraded cam or heads) change the callibration on the mass air meter
2. When installing pulleys.. you dont have to drain the radiator. They are probably telling you to remove the radiator to get at the alternator bolt.. Just take the alternator off, its easier.. and the rest of the bolts you can get off with the radiatior in place. I moved the fan shroud a little.. it made it easier to get to the crank bolt.

3. You should be fine to replace any of the hoses to the egr and t/b. Again.. no need to drain the coolant. They will not cause you any problems by just removing them as is.

Hope this info helps.

Good luck!

bmorrisj

did you get a new shorty h/x-pipe for those longtubes?

Obsol3te

nosir i didnt

and as for the engine i do have the ford b303 cam in there, i DO plan on gettin new heads VERY soon just need to get around to ordering them
most likely AFR's 185's

and any suggestions on the H pipe?
do i have to get a new FULL exhaust system?
also, i want the exhaust like how i have it now. Not showing hidden behind the back skirt pointed downward. heres a pic



eh might as well right?
ok so i hear Magnaflow are really good...
but they make just mufflers i think
so what about the pipe and cats?

Obsol3te

wait, from the muffler to the back of the car i can still use those same pipes right?
or am i going to have to change everything to work whith those long tube headers...

roundman

1) the 24# injectors are too big until you do a lot more with the cam and heads
2) the 1-3/4" headers are also too large, you will lose a lot of low end torque with them, you should have gotten 1-5/8" ones instead- I'd try to exchange them for 1-5/8" ones-you won't like what the 1-3/4" will do to a street driven Stang, trust me on this one! some of the header bolts are a pain to install also, you might have to cut off a thread or two on several of them
3) you don't need to drain the radiator to install the pulleys if you have the right tools and can get to the bolts on the water pump hub OK - put a drop of blue locktite on the crank hub bolts and torque them to the specs when you install the new pulley
4) the little hoses going to the EGR spacer are carrying engine coolant through it to cool it off, so you need to drain a little out of the radiator in order to change them and not make a mess
5) your exising H-pipe won't work with the long tubes or existing cats-if you have to pass a smog test, then you need to get/make a new H or X pipe with some cats to go after the collectors and new pipe to connect to the existing mufflers and tailpipes which can remain the same as is
6) there may be some minor interference between the driver's side headers and the steering shaft that will require the big friendly hammer to make a dent in the tubes so the shaft don't rub against them
7) the nut on the alternator shaft can be a bitch to get off without an impact wrench, especially if you have the alternator off the car
8) the alternator won't charge as much when the car is idling with the underdrive pulley but it will be OK above 1,000rpm
9) make sure you get the belt back on properly so the water pump runs in the correct direction which is counter-clockwise or reverse rotation
10) sorry to rain on your parade, but that's life![:'(]

Obsol3te

i already had asked about the 1 3/4" or 1 5/8" headers...
every1 said go with 1 3/4"

would it be ok if my main goal was around 400-500 hp?

and if it is ok
when would be an ideal time to change the headers and the exhaust so i dont lose any hp/torque?

Current mods:
[ul][*] 4.10 Gears[*] Ford B Cam:
. 397-M-6250-B303 Duration': 224°/224° @ .050'
. Lift: .480'/.480'[*] 75 Dry Shot of N.O.S. Nitrous [*] Pro-M Bullet 75mm MAF for 24# Injectors[*] Chrome Breather Valve
[/ul]
Mods to come:
[ul] [*] Edelbrock Performer Intake(1500-6500)[*] 24# Injectors[*] Accufab 70mm TB[*] EGR Spacer[*] Steeda Aluminum Underdrive Pulleys[*] Bat. Relocation Kit[*] BBK 1 3/4" Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers
[/ul]
Once the Intake comes in I'll put in the TB/EGR and Injectors.

Also, getting AFR's 185 Heads soon too
i just need to find out what springs to get and rockers

And what else should I order? I want to keep it N/A for now

WNDSOR

i think once you get your heads, those headers will be fine, especially with the juice, and as far the header bolts, you should have to cut any threads off, mine went in fine with 1 3/4

roundman

opinions are like ********, everybody's got one! mine is just one opinion. you won't lose HP and torque with the 1-3/4" headers, you just move the peak for each way up higher in the rpm range where you probably won't be able to use too much of it on the street. yes they would be OK for 400-500 HP in the future. Just to humor me, why don't you install just the headers first and see for yourself what happens to the low end torque and let me know if I was right or wrong. why not buy the heads fully assembled with valves, springs, retainers? just make sure you don't get the valves bigger than 1.94/1.60" or you run the risk of the piston valve reliefs not being big enough and it will cause piston to valve interference which is a very bad thing to have happen. I'm not real sure but you might have to have the computer calibrated for the new injectors and MAF, but being a speed density guy, I'm not positive about that. I'm sure someone else out here can tell you for sure though. good luck with all this and I hope it works out fine for you!

Obsol3te

ok now i know i've asked this a billion times but i emailed edelbrock and they had told me these heads would be best for what i told them my goals and what i had ordered
heres the link
Edelbrock heads

now
as for vfast, and 100th96cobra keeps suggesting is go with AFR
but vfast said go with the AFR 185's
these are more expensive but that doesnt really bother me too much if im going to get better performance out of it.
like i said Goals are 400-500HP
preferably around the 450 range.

is there much of a differance between the two and will each fit my needs?
if there isnt much of a differance then why not just get the edel right?

heres what the Edelbrock Tech said: