So many questions on setup...
05-10-2006, 09:10 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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So many questions on setup...
i cant decide what i want to do with my car. im thinking either a 351W, a vortech s trim, or build a turbo setup. i was thinking H/C/I but i have heard that even those mods only put you in the 13s... i want something with some serious power. ANY suggestions would be great, like what is cheapest, what is the best route to take, etc. THANKS GUYS!
05-10-2006, 09:13 PM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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Posts: 1,130
RE: So many questions on setup...
ORIGINAL: ckyguy68
i cant decide what i want to do with my car. im thinking either a 351W, a vortech s trim, or build a turbo setup. i was thinking H/C/I but i have heard that even those mods only put you in the 13s... i want something with some serious power. ANY suggestions would be great, like what is cheapest, what is the best route to take, etc. THANKS GUYS!
i cant decide what i want to do with my car. im thinking either a 351W, a vortech s trim, or build a turbo setup. i was thinking H/C/I but i have heard that even those mods only put you in the 13s... i want something with some serious power. ANY suggestions would be great, like what is cheapest, what is the best route to take, etc. THANKS GUYS!
The cheapest and best are usually not the same.
05-10-2006, 09:38 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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Posts: 2,524
RE: So many questions on setup...
the cheapest and best are no where near the same. horsepower = money. bottom line. a h/c/i swap is always a good building block to start modding. if you go with a supercharger or a turbo set up you're gonna want the h/c/i anyways. that would probably be cheapest for now and you'd still see a good power gain from it.
05-10-2006, 10:09 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Posts: 5,263
RE: So many questions on setup...
I've been doing some research on the set-up I've finally chosen and
came up with the following numbers.
Pros: you get stronger 351W block, cost less and more reliable than 347, more power than 347.
new stock 351W short block (roller) ........... $750
Twisted wedge heads ............................... $1,100
GT-40 intake 5.8L Lightning ....................... $500 (ebay)
351W install kit ......................................... $500 ( oil pan, mounts, headers, ect. )
Lifters, pushrods, rocker arms ................... $600
Ford "e" cam.............................................. $150
Fuel pump ................................................. $150
all new sensors and gaskets ...................... $500
ARP head bolts ......................................... $100
Injectors .................................................. $300
TB/EGR/CAI ............................................ $300
Distributor for 351W ................................. $300
Mechanic put it all together ........................ $500
Raised cowl hood ...................................... $500
This will give you a brand new "crate engine" making 425-450hp w/ pavement ripping torque.
Total .................................................. .... $6,250 complete from airfilter to oil pan and new hood
Think i covered most cost, but probably missed a few small things like plugs and wires
and computer chip/tune.
Put a 10psi Vortech or Kennebell blower on later and put out over 500rwhp
Links:
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
http://www.mspmall.com/ddautospec/swapkits.html
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...n/351swap.html
came up with the following numbers.
Pros: you get stronger 351W block, cost less and more reliable than 347, more power than 347.
new stock 351W short block (roller) ........... $750
Twisted wedge heads ............................... $1,100
GT-40 intake 5.8L Lightning ....................... $500 (ebay)
351W install kit ......................................... $500 ( oil pan, mounts, headers, ect. )
Lifters, pushrods, rocker arms ................... $600
Ford "e" cam.............................................. $150
Fuel pump ................................................. $150
all new sensors and gaskets ...................... $500
ARP head bolts ......................................... $100
Injectors .................................................. $300
TB/EGR/CAI ............................................ $300
Distributor for 351W ................................. $300
Mechanic put it all together ........................ $500
Raised cowl hood ...................................... $500
This will give you a brand new "crate engine" making 425-450hp w/ pavement ripping torque.
Total .................................................. .... $6,250 complete from airfilter to oil pan and new hood
Think i covered most cost, but probably missed a few small things like plugs and wires
and computer chip/tune.
Put a 10psi Vortech or Kennebell blower on later and put out over 500rwhp
Links:
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
http://www.mspmall.com/ddautospec/swapkits.html
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...n/351swap.html
05-11-2006, 12:37 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Posts: 2,103
RE: So many questions on setup...
if i did a 351W i would most likely carb it. but if i stick with my 302, what is a good H/C/I combo?
ORIGINAL: r.barn
I've been doing some research on the set-up I've finally chosen and
came up with the following numbers.
Pros: you get stronger 351W block, cost less and more reliable than 347, more power than 347.
new stock 351W short block (roller) ........... $750
Twisted wedge heads ............................... $1,100
GT-40 intake 5.8L Lightning ....................... $500 (ebay)
351W install kit ......................................... $500 ( oil pan, mounts, headers, ect. )
Lifters, pushrods, rocker arms ................... $600
Ford "e" cam.............................................. $150
Fuel pump ................................................. $150
all new sensors and gaskets ...................... $500
ARP head bolts ......................................... $100
Injectors .................................................. $300
TB/EGR/CAI ............................................ $300
Distributor for 351W ................................. $300
Mechanic put it all together ........................ $500
Raised cowl hood ...................................... $500
This will give you a brand new "crate engine" making 425-450hp w/ pavement ripping torque.
Total .................................................. .... $6,250 complete from airfilter to oil pan and new hood
Think i covered most cost, but probably missed a few small things like plugs and wires
and computer chip/tune.
Put a 10psi Vortech or Kennebell blower on later and put out over 500rwhp
Links:
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
http://www.mspmall.com/ddautospec/swapkits.html
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...n/351swap.html
I've been doing some research on the set-up I've finally chosen and
came up with the following numbers.
Pros: you get stronger 351W block, cost less and more reliable than 347, more power than 347.
new stock 351W short block (roller) ........... $750
Twisted wedge heads ............................... $1,100
GT-40 intake 5.8L Lightning ....................... $500 (ebay)
351W install kit ......................................... $500 ( oil pan, mounts, headers, ect. )
Lifters, pushrods, rocker arms ................... $600
Ford "e" cam.............................................. $150
Fuel pump ................................................. $150
all new sensors and gaskets ...................... $500
ARP head bolts ......................................... $100
Injectors .................................................. $300
TB/EGR/CAI ............................................ $300
Distributor for 351W ................................. $300
Mechanic put it all together ........................ $500
Raised cowl hood ...................................... $500
This will give you a brand new "crate engine" making 425-450hp w/ pavement ripping torque.
Total .................................................. .... $6,250 complete from airfilter to oil pan and new hood
Think i covered most cost, but probably missed a few small things like plugs and wires
and computer chip/tune.
Put a 10psi Vortech or Kennebell blower on later and put out over 500rwhp
Links:
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
http://www.mspmall.com/ddautospec/swapkits.html
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...n/351swap.html
05-11-2006, 01:31 AM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 183
RE: So many questions on setup...
I'm going with a 347 and most likely 185AFR's and trickfolow trach heat intake. I'm more than anxious for boost but think it's much better and easier to match the S/C or turbo to the engine after you have the H/C/I. That way you have the foundation down and know how the engine runs and its powerband... then add boost, change the injectors and tune and your on your way.
you can easily run 13's with H/C/I with everything else being good and your driving up to par.
then again I'll prolly get the new combo in and be happy for a week before I break down (mentally) and drop the cash on the Novi 2K, then a moth after that I'll end up overdriving the blower wanting to put in a different cam and more radical tune... thats just me though
you can easily run 13's with H/C/I with everything else being good and your driving up to par.
then again I'll prolly get the new combo in and be happy for a week before I break down (mentally) and drop the cash on the Novi 2K, then a moth after that I'll end up overdriving the blower wanting to put in a different cam and more radical tune... thats just me though
05-11-2006, 01:35 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Posts: 2,103
RE: So many questions on setup...
what is the best H/C/I combo? i was thinking about AFR 165s, TrickFlow Street Heat U/L, and a TrickFlow stage 1 cam... also, this can all be done with the engine in, correct? i have heard that to get the cam in you have to remove the radiator.
05-11-2006, 02:03 AM
#10
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Posts: 22,376
RE: So many questions on setup...
dude.. for starters.... your driving a notch... its the lightest of the mustangs from the last 20 years.
do some simple weight reduction, get some sticky tires, and gears... your close to if not IN the 12s
Now add in an HCI swap... 300+ hp later... low 12's to high 11's
If you wanna run forced induction... 185s are the way to go as far as AFRs stand. You COULD run a set of trick flow twisted wedge 170s and STILL make a ton of power
If you swap to a 351, run a large head just because of the displacement. afr 185 for n/a 205 for boost. when you get into forced induction.... flow is everything... port velocity doesnt matter any more b/c its being FORCED in... so you might as well get in as much as you can
do some simple weight reduction, get some sticky tires, and gears... your close to if not IN the 12s
Now add in an HCI swap... 300+ hp later... low 12's to high 11's
If you wanna run forced induction... 185s are the way to go as far as AFRs stand. You COULD run a set of trick flow twisted wedge 170s and STILL make a ton of power
If you swap to a 351, run a large head just because of the displacement. afr 185 for n/a 205 for boost. when you get into forced induction.... flow is everything... port velocity doesnt matter any more b/c its being FORCED in... so you might as well get in as much as you can