When I do a KOER diagnostic test on my Mustang, it doesn't work. I get no codes, and of course the cylinder test doesn't activate either. HELP!

I have the Motorsport computer harness, and an A9L computer from the junkyard. I run a 5 speed. The car was originaly a 4 cylinder.

 

are you using a test light, the check engine light or an actual code reader?

 

I just use the check engine light. It's the same as using a meter off of the diagnostic port, right?

 

hey lead foot...I have the same problem, and parts, in a carthat was originally a four banger, except mine doesn't get codes even when the engine isn't running, been racking my brains over it for a while, so if you learn anything keep me posted

 

I get the engine off codes (KOEO), but that's it. It seems like some things don't quite work right though. I bought the sensor kit from Motorsport, with the thermactor solenoids, relays, and O2 sensors. It was a great deal BTW, but one of my codes says the air 2 isn't working. My problem is low speed driveability. It sucks.

I have a cam with a 107 lobe sep, which is tight, but Lunati says it's a EFI cam (#51027). Full throttle is great. It's the cam from the Systemax 2 kit. It's from the year 2000, because they actually put a few different cams in that kit. They settled for a 112 lobe seperation nowadays. All the other specs are the same as mine. .509/.509 lift, 276/280-218/222 @.050 duration. I used to get some internal backfires too. I think that was a vacum leak off of the rear intake seal. I talked to a guy, and he said you might get that with the tight lobe seperation to. But I fixed the leak, and it hasn't backfired since.

I've just been trying to get all of the vacum hoses, and emissions to stock, because I know the computer looks for that stuff, and it won't run right without it. But my drive ability is still kind of crappy at like 25 MPH, in third. It will buck a bit.

I'm sure a new chip, and flash would do the trick by someone who knows. I live not for from Livernois Motorsports, but that's a lot of cash. $300 for the chip, + dyno time. I don't wanna' do that. I'd rather save for a huffer!

 

well i got my car running better by using a different computer, but like you, i still get no codes. I have the same problems though, low speed I get occasional bucks, usually around 1,800 rpm. I also have a cam, so maybe thats part of it, but like you, no probs or bucks when I am really getting on it. I searched for vacuum leaks and found none. I messed with my timining a little and it didn't go away completely but did improve.