They make tap extractors as small as 1/8".

 

I'll stop by advanced tomorrow and see what they got, and i ahve some punches, and the guy has a bunch of stuff too thats helpin me work on it. I'm sure i'll get it out eventually, it just stupid that its there in the fist place. I'll try everything i can. And my "mickey mouse" mechanic isnt really my mechanic at all. Hes my brothers friend, and i know him pretty well. He's pretty good with cars and stuff, but i dont ahve a mechanic that i go to. It was just a suggestion, cuz his other one was to take the head off and take it to a machine shop, which i didnt wanna do at all. I'm pretty close to ahving it done, and to take it off again would be a totall buzz kill. I'll let you guys know how it goes. If i get it out tomorrow i can put the upper intake on too. And all i need from there is the sn95 elbow adapter and the pcv valve, and a few other small vacuum lines under the intake. So i'm really close here. I hope after this is out, all goes well. I"m sure it will tho. Thanks for all the input fellas. You guys calmed me down about it abit. Thanks

 

Nice rocker arms.

 

what size of rockers do you have on there? I am putting on some p heads this winter and I am looking for a good valve train/cam for them
Good luck with the tap

Kev

 

They are 1.6, i was gona go with 1.7 but didnt wanna test to see if it'd clear, so i went with 1.6 so i'd be sure. The vavles are larger and the springs are good up to .600 lift, but i bought them with them in there. Make sure you change the springs in the P's cuz tey are only good to about .500 lift, and with most cams you'll be right there, or over with 1.6's, and if you want to go with 1.7's, you'll definatly want larger springs. Thanks for the help

 

If the tap can be heated until it is red hot it will lose it's hardness and can then be drilled out. It will ruin your paint in that area but shouldn't hurt the head. Try to use as small a torch as possible, preferably something with a pinpoint flame like a jewler's torch, to direct most of the flame onto the tap and use some scrap sheet metal to shield the flame from every thing else. You may have to repeat the heat/drill process more than once if you don't heat the tap enough to soften the entire length the first time . Keep in mind that if this happens, the tip of the drill bit will be instantly dulled once you hit the hard part of the tap causing you to either sharpen it(the drill bit) or replace it. Each time that you drill use a center punch, preferably a transfer type that will automatically center in the hole. These and the jeweler's torch can be purchased pretty cheaply from Harbor Freight. Be sure to squirt some cutting oil down the hole. Also a left hand drill bit, while not absolutely necessary, would help. Lastly after the tap is removed you will probably have to clean up the hole with a tap or, if the hole is pretty torn up, redrill oversized and install a larger bolt or Helicoil to utilize the original bolt. The bottom line on all of this is to take your time especially when drilling . The last thing you need is a broken bit stuck in the hole too.

 

^^ Thakns for all that info, i'll try it out. I'm sure we can find something to heat it up efficiantly. I'm sure we'll get it out eventually, it just might take awhile. I reported that guy to ebay who sold them to me, and sent him an email too. So hopefully i will get some $$ back, but very doubtful. I'll go over tomorrow and try, i didnt have a chance to get over there today cuz i had no way of getting there. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks everyone.

 

I should have mentioned that once you get the hole deep enough you would use an Easy Out to remove the tap. Try to drill the hole as deep as possible and use the largest diameter bit that you can without getting into the threads. This is why you want use the centerpunch to keep the hole centered. This will allow you to use the largest Easy Out possible and lessen the chance of breakage. If you use a left hand bit to drill the hole it is possible that the tap might spin out while drilling. If you have to use the Easy Out, be careful not to break it. They have the same hardness as a tap and break just as easily. Do not try to remove the tap until every thing has cooled down after drilling. Just the heat caused by the friction of drilling will cause the tap to fit tighter in the hole. Make sure to heat the tap to RED HOT before drilling and take your time!!! Don't get any heat on those new valve springs or they're history.

 

GOT IT OUT ! I just used a punch that was sharp, had to keep resharpening it, and hit the eff outa it. It chipped away piece by piece, all was going good, then the dam tip of the punch broke off, haha, so that took another 10 minutes or mroe to get that out. But i just used a 5/16" tap and taped what i could, cuz they started to drill it, and only got about half way, and the bottom is small, and i couldnt get a tap to start int he small part. So its gonna work, i'm just gonna use a few washers to make up for the space. I'll prolly use RTV sealant around the area too, just incase it wont torque down to spec. I'm gonna wait and get some better looking valve covers too.
Thanks for all the tips and advice fellas, i appreciate it.

 

Way to go man, congrats!!!