I BOUGHT STUD MOUNT 1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS AND CANNOT FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT THESE ON.. SOMEBODY TRIED EXPLAINING IT, AND HIS IDEA DIDNT WORK, NOW MY CAR IS BROKE AND IM LOST
PLEASE HELP

THANKS


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what heads are they being put on?

 

trickflow aluminum...

 

do you have the correct stud size for the rockers and the heads..... what size studs are they? 3/8, 7/16?

 

yeah thats right, i do know that..this whats up

ok, the way i was told was put it at TDC #1 piston, and adjust i or e on some cylinders, then put it at TDC number 6 and adjust the rest, well i did and when i was at TDC on number 1, i got to cylinder 8 which was adjust intake, so i put the rocker on and when i went to put the bolt on , there was no threads to thread the biolt on, the rocker WAS NOT going on.. is there another way to do this??


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oh you want to shim/adjust the rockers.... you want to start with cyl #1 spin the crank to where both #1 valves would be closed....put the rocker on and tighten the nut.... when you torque the nut if you go over 1/2 a turn add some shim, you want to turn 1/4-1/2 turn to the torque spec.....then turn the crank to the next cylinder in the firing order...

 

Here's the procedure right from the manual
1) put #1 piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke, then check the following valves:
#1 intake, #1 exhaust
#4 intake, #3 exhaust
#8 intake, #7 exhaust
2) then rotate the crankshaft clockwise 360 degrees ( one full revolution back to TDC mark) and check the following valves:
#3 intake, #2 exhaust
#7 intake, #6 exhaust
3) rotate the crankshaft clockwise 90 degrees from position 2, then check the following valves:
#2 intake, #4 exhaust
#5 intake, #5 exhaust
#6 intake, #8 exhaust
make sure the push rod is properly seated in the lifter cup and in the end of the rocker arm with the rocker properly positioned on the stud, then you slowly tighten the rocker arm retaining nut while spinning the pushrod with your fingers, just when you can't spin the pushrod anymore, stop, then tighten the nut 1/2 a complete turn more and stop. go on to the next valve and repeat this process until you have done all of them. this should get you in the ballpark anyway. and please double check with the supplier of the rocker arms or dealer mechanic about whether 1/2 a full turn is enough or whether you need to go to 3/4 turn or 1 full turn, I forget which is the correct one for the final adjustment. I know that 1/2 turn will get you close enough that the engine should run though.
hope this helps you out there BOWTIE! you know you need to change that name don't you?

 

so was i close?

 

not exactly! once you go to the stud mounted rockers, you don't use shims or at least I don't recall ever needing to use shims. I think the shims are only for the pedestal mounted rockers. with hydraulic lifters, once you have zero lash, you then tighten the rocker up some more to preload the lifter but I couldn't remember exactly how much preload turns it takes it's been so long since I messed with any of them. I know you don't want go so far that the lifter is collasped and then it is a solid lifter!