pulled codes
oh so I just pulled the codes so i can have the numerbs again and see if anything changed since my new o2's were "installed"
i ran the KOEO codes and everything checked but here are the KOER tests results
got 2 readings of each of these numbers:
13- RPM at idle out of range/ low
41- HEGO (HO25) sensor volt low/ system lean
91- HEGO (HO25) sensor volt low/ system lean
ruled out o2's what's next?
i ran the KOEO codes and everything checked but here are the KOER tests results
got 2 readings of each of these numbers:
13- RPM at idle out of range/ low
41- HEGO (HO25) sensor volt low/ system lean
91- HEGO (HO25) sensor volt low/ system lean
ruled out o2's what's next?
The code 13 also has to do with the Air Bypass Valve on the front side of the throttle body. Pull it off, inspect and clean it if you can. It could also be the cause of the other two lean conditions. The plunger inside should move smoothly.
13 - RPM Not Within Self Test Lower Limit (R), DC Motor Did Not Move (O,M,R), Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly -generally idle too high
+ the lean codes....usually means a vacuum leak. You should also check the HEGO ground wire/connection behind the LH cylinder head to make sure it doesn't have a problem (orange wire labeled with #19 below)......

Other items to check/do:
1. Clean MAF
2. PCV valve
3. Fuel Pressure
4. Base Idle Reset
+ the lean codes....usually means a vacuum leak. You should also check the HEGO ground wire/connection behind the LH cylinder head to make sure it doesn't have a problem (orange wire labeled with #19 below)......

Other items to check/do:
1. Clean MAF
2. PCV valve
3. Fuel Pressure
4. Base Idle Reset
i'm an idiot... i found that the ground wire isn't connected to the cylinder head and that i didn't connect it when i put everything back together
the RPM too low could be because i turned it down a little
the RPM too low could be because i turned it down a little
at least you found that problem, but i would clean or replace the iac too, sometimes even if the plunger itself moves smoothly, the mechanicals in the valve that move the plunger can be bad and cause a problem. i know cause ive been bitten by that prob
is there a way to connect it back without taking everything apart? there's a bolt back there that it goes under right? but there doesn't seem like there's enough room to unscrew it


