schwindty

Ok I will just start from the top I just installed the mods listed below on my signature line. First off I am planning to install 1.7 Roller Rockers after Christmass. I was just wondering if there is 1.7 available for 3/8 Studs? As well my parts store can order in 1.6 rollers for me from Crane what is the difference in power ir quality on these rockers? Now for my power question, I just installed all these parts I ran out on the highway today and well I was not impressed at all! !! I hammed on it from a dead stop and it was WAY WORSE than what it was stock and once it hits 3 Gran the power hits and MAN it felt good!! What is wrong with it and what should i check so I can get the power off the line? Please HELP!! Another few questions are After I install Roller Rockers I was thinking of toastin my density system even though I do not plan on running a huge cam just increase the lift .30 on my stock camm, what can i basically do to reach low 13's with my setup, I already am plannin a torque converter, ****f kit, and 3:55;s. ANother thing I was wondering is where I get a good aluminium driveshaft from? Please help me out guys I am a virgin to this game!!

Quik

sorry to say this but your combo isnt set up at all right. yoru 24lb injectors are to much. you need steeper gears, you need a stall, your tb is alittle large, your still SD

to fix this you need to convert to MAF or get a stand alone SD system or a piggy back style tuning for the SD.

then you need gears, stall and actually less injectors since your not using a new cam. you have way to much air in and nothing allowing to make full potential of your combo. once you get a cam that matches your heads,intake,gears then you need to decide on a stall to match all of this. you can probably run a 3k stall safely. also you want to see where you want to make your power at as for as mid to upper or strictly upper rpms. this will also play a role in your gear choice. with these additions and a suspension with tires look to see mid to high 12s if you can drive

right now your car is running way off at low rpms its not to WOT that the computer can help adjust the performance of yoru setup. for now remove the 24s to you get a cam. SD can allow heads and intake but hates 24lb injectors. also to help idle drill a 1/4 hole in yoru tb instead of that little 5/32 hole it has now

schwindty

Well along with alot of other people I was not sure of the MAF conversion, in my opinion it is alot easier just alot of money spent with no HP gain!! As for the tranny and gears I am changing them for sure I am looking for a 2600-3000 stall and 3:55's in the rear end, due to it being a dialy driver. But I have asked around and I have had mixed reactions with the 24 Lb injectors a gfew people told me to get them for now until I can increase my lift with some roller rockers. Sense I have a pressure regulator wouldnt I be able to somewhat adjust the flow and from what articles I have read on speed density they can trim 24's but that is the MAX they can trim for? Just what I have read!! Any why is my TB too large this is the one my parts man said would work best. I basically need to know more reasons why its winter now I do have all winter to fix on it, and well there with the tranny and gears i have it should still run proper Engine wise anyways, Please inform me at your earliest convenience

Dbeck002

the MAF conversion is a must. if your running SD youre stang will not handle upgrades well and you will see power loss or irregular idling. the problem lies in your SD, convert to mass air and im sure your problem will be solved.

by the way, some of the power loss is attributed to the loss of low end torque. a better breathing engine will loose some low end and gain upper end power, this is normal.

you should convert to MAF now, you will see that later on when you mod some more youll have no choice, better do it now i say...

88_5.0

i'd say get 3:73's instead of 3:55's [sm=smiley20.gif]

me alot fast than u

well you did one of the worst mods on a SD car..mess with cam lift.....you need to get a maf or better yet go carb

nemethjames1

[sm=exactly.gif]

roundman

he hasn't messed with the cam yet guys, he says he wants to but his sig line says he still has the stock cam.
I would recommend he check the state of tune of the engine and replace the plugs, wires, etc. as needed then reset the TPS sensor voltage and reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 10 minutes (which he should have already done when he changed the stuff he already did). I also think he was expecting way too much of a performance increase from what he did and the stock cam is hurting things in this area.
I would also definitely go with 3.73 rear gears when you get around to changing them out, they won't hurt it being a daily driver and will really wake up the engine too.

Quik

SD doesnt like 24lb injectors it will cause the car to run rich. take a look in the offical ford 5.0 reference book. it will tell you why it doesnt like it. also with SD some mods can be done but when more mods like he has have been done the car will run like **** under wot but at wot it will run half decent

Stinger

3.73 a must bro thats a good gear for autos. I agree with the others you need to put back in your 19s then set TPS. You will have probs with speed denisty but i have heard people doing just fine so do what you think is best. Or just get a cam pass on the 1.7s and see how the car acts with it then maybe get change out SD. Me pesonally i would just get MAF and call it good until the next mod. Good luck