5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Knock/Tick

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Old 09-24-2003, 04:17 PM
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Muscles
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<FONT face="Times New Roman, Times, serif" color=black size=1><IMG src=smileys/smiley5.gif border="0"><FONT size=3>i have an 89 GT, my baby I just bought back in April just started making a loud ticking noise I wouldnt quite call it a knocking but it ticks very loud and it is defenitily coming from the engine. My guess is something is going on with the valves, don't know though Im not a mechanic or anything. I am taking her apart right not and I am about to check the valves. Any ideas before I go any furthur on what it might be??? HEl PLease<IMG src=smileys/smiley4.gif border="0">...she also has 135,000 miles// I know its time for a engine overhaul//I wanna do it myself. Im starting with the heads, manifolds and exhaust system.<IMG src=smileys/smiley24.gif border="0"></FONT></FONT></P>
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:39 PM
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vfast
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Default Knock/Tick

could be a bad lifter,header leak,bad rocker arm,pushrod..etc
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:16 PM
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mdvaldosta
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yea what vfast said, best way to diagnose where the problem is or which lifter etc is sticking, is using a scope (listening device). It will help you narrow the problem down to which cylinder its coming from if applicable
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:19 PM
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the FIRST thing is check your oil pressure and not by the dumbie gauge in the dash..
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:21 PM
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What will the oil pressure tell me? If there are leaks? The Pistons really shouldnt have anyhting to dowith this right? Should I even bother checking the lifter, rockers, pushrods, etc....if I'm getting new heads etc.... I'm thinking about getting the Holly Systemax II Engine Package, well not thinking... just waiting to have the money to get it. I want to get working on my bone stock pony. I am also changing out the Rad for a Ford Racing one and the Fan for a Black Magic Electric Fan...</P>
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:25 PM
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The lifters are hydrolic, which means they use oil to pump up and take the slack out of the valvtrain. If you don't have enough oil / oil pressure the lifters wont pump up, and you will get a ticking sound from the top end, which can prematurely wear the valvetrain.</P>
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:52 PM
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muscles..seems you have alot of cash you want to spend...here this will help you...you can get a 3 row rad for around 120.00 or better a 2 row alum one for around 175.00....
you might be better off with a set of afr185 which will out flow those heads. or buy my edlebrock heads for 800.00
but you will waste all that $$$ if you have a oil pump going as it will trash your upper end....depending on how long the problem has been going I would put a oil pump in it and drive it..then you could find a nice 302 block and start you build up while being able to drive the car..one thing when you do build your engine have the machine shop cleanace the oil pump for ya..
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:41 PM
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No thats the thing I dont have that much $$$ I have to do it little by little. So what should I do first? check the oil pump??? Can I do that with the engine in the car? Should I even bother checking the upper end? Like the pushrods, lifters, valves, springs, rockers??? or not. Cuz I already took off the Upper manifold and covers. So your saying I should buy me a 302 block and build it while I drive this one, and just fix the oil pump for now on this one?
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:50 PM
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Oh another concern, my baby is missing her MAF whats the deal??? Someone told me its cuz that made it run faster?!?!?! Vut I know that 89s and up have MAFS so I dont get that&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:54 PM
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hes saying put a new pump in it and if you plan to do that muc modifications then it may be better for you to spend 300 bucks on a NEW block or buy a used one and have it machined. That way you could build your long block while driving your car. You dont have to do it that way, but its best to have a fresh bottom end if your gonna do that much top end work.</P>


As for the pump, drive your car up on ramps, pull the e-brake, disc battery, remove the 12 or so oil pan bolts, drop pan, remove the oil pump (2 or 3 bolts including screen I think), pre-prime your new pump (I use vaseline) or prime it through distributer hole with a tool for your drill after you put it on, bolt new one on, replace gasket and pan. Done. A 30 min job from start to finish. If you pre-primed with vaseline then change the oil after you run the engine for about 30 seconds at idle. A new pump drive rod would be a good idea too. So would getting your pump blueprinted.</P>


Damn I typed too much</P>
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