silver91gt

my problem is, when I first ran it all was good, when running the volts were 14.9 and when the fan was on it would go down to 13.8.
I drove it for 2kms and the valve covers were very hot, and the timing cover, and the alternator were too. then the batt was only at 12.7 when running, and it would lope very bad, from 400-1000rpm.
it is the alternator that worries me, because the bracket was only warm to the touch, but the alternator casing was so hot I couldn't touch it.
does anyone know what could cause this.

I replaced my battery and post clamps, replaced alternator plugs, cleaned all grounds, and I still can't figure it out. it keeps frying my voltage regulator.
how can I find out what is causing this.
is there anything I can bypass, to hook the alternator straight to the battery?
could I hook a ground wire from the bolt for the alt bracket, to the neg batt?
would that sufficently ground it?

please help me.

silver91gt

up

silver91gt

what, no one had anything like this happen?
could it be caused by an overheat?
I ran lean for a while and overheated the motor.
can it burn my valve seals making the combustion come into the valve covers?

silver91gt

22 people read this, and no one can help me???

mississippiheat

Hey,
No real answer here but how about he alt. bearings. Take the belt off and spin the pully. If it makes a noise or feels rough, it could be it. I dont see where volt output would cause all that heat. Just an idea.

silver91gt

it was a rebuilt alt, and this is the second one I've went through.

90GTRagtop

Sounds like your alternator is tosted. An internal short will cause the casing to overheat as you are describing as a result of large current flow that stays inside the alternator. You mention that you have an electric fan, what size alternator do you have? You should probably have at least a 120 amp. If your engine ground is bad, as you suspect, then yes you can improve it by running an additional ground wire from the alternator bracket to the - terminal on the battery (I had to do that on a small fire truck once cause of a poor engine ground). If you run a ground, use the same size cable as your battery cable, because this ground could conceivably pull all of the starter current. I suspect that your other heating and poor running issues are coming from the alternator providing insufficient current to properly power the fuel and ignition systems.

Good Luck

stanglx2002

the only problem I see is that you are having a idling probelm right?

silver91gt

no, my altenator gets extremely hot after about 1/2 hour of running.
this is my 2nd alternator, snd it is still doing it.
then it will get so hot the car wont run.

when it drives, everything is okay, temps at 180, oil pressure at 30psi at idle I run 10w40 oil.


yesterday I adjusted my rr's and put it back together.
took it for a drive and all was good, I checked the volts when running and I got 15.1v.
after my drive, I pulled up and the idle was all lopey, the volts were only at 12.4.

I took off a vacum line and it smoothed the idle, when it was back it went lopey again and died.
then my alternator was hot, and I didn't drive it since.

and my vac was at 11-13 vacum up and down with the lopes
I have a boost/vac gauge.
I got it be4 my nitrous, was going to go s/c

I can also hear a whistle coming from pass side throttle body area, and cant find where it comes from.
I redid the intake gaskets 2 times (upper & lower), the tb & spacer gaskets, repositioned my CAI.
does a tps have a gasket?
I listened with an electric stethescope and the loudest part was the tps, but in general the TB area.

silver91gt

I am still running the stock 75 amp alternator.
my fan pulls less than 25 amps, and I used a relay to wire it.