also make sure you move the red lead over to the hole for dc 10 setting

 

yes

 

I think I found the culprit. The driver door jam switch was not making full contact with the door when shut. When I pushed the switch the meter dropped to .003 amps. I'm guessing that's like 30 milliamps right? Am I right to say that as long as it's under 60 milliamps (.006) it's at a safe draw?



I also have one more question. The car didn't have a tranny in it when I bought it. I decided to replace the original AOD with a C4. Of course now I can't start the car with the key. I've looked everywhere under the car for a harness that would plug into a neutral safety switch, but the only thing under there is one 4 pin connecter with 4 wires (purple, purple w/blk stripe, white, and red), and a 2 wire harness for the speedo cable. I found out that the two purple wires control the reverse lights, but the red and white one doesn't seem to do anything.

Does anybody know where or how to jump the wire for the switch so I can use the key to crank the car?

Thanks guys.

 

.003 A = 3 milliamps ..... 60 millliamps = .060 A

 

Thanks, you don't by chance know the answer to my second question do you?

How do you bypass the neutral safety switch?

 

^^^^^I beleive you loop the two other wires together and it should start

 

I tried that, but it didn't work.

 

then you need to trace the wires and see where they may be cut or disconnected, cause in that 4 pack of wires, 2 are for the back up lights and 2 are for nuetral saftey switch/ prndl switch

 

On mitchell on demand at my school. It shows that the backup/neutral safety switch are the same. Also the wires for it are white/pink from the ignition switch going into the switch and red/light blue coming out of the switch to the starter relay.

 

I finally found the problem. It's now fixed and cranking with the key. The red wire with blue stripe was broken. I found it by tracing the wire back inside the car. Thanks for all the help guys.