N8s89GT

I have read the forums for possible solutions on my starting problems and I did some troubleshooting, but I wanted to see is anyone in Mustang Nation could help me narrow it down.

I took a battery out of another car, that does start, and my car acted like it wanted to start, but just wouldn't turn over. I let it sit for a minute and tried again...this time it only clicked once and then nothing. (I also placed a brand-new optima (redtop) battery in the car and it clicked multiple times.) I placed the previously mentioned battery back into the other vehicle and it fired right up. So, I don't think the battery is the issue. In your experiences does this sound like a bad starter solenoid or starter? Bad alternator?

My car is completely stock other than disc brake upgrades and some flowmaster mufflers. Not 100% positive but it appears the previous owner replaced the alternator - looks newer.

1. any advice?
2. also, where does the other end of the negative battery cable connect? I have it connected to the bolt on the AC compressor bracket? Does anyone know the stock location for that cable?

Thanks in advance for any advice, help, or other comments.

PRO50SC

It could very well be one of the items you listed w/ the exception of the alt. It will not cause the car NOT to start. Check all the cable connections as well. I think the stock location for the neg cable end was on the timing cover. Can't remember for sure. Regardless, connect it to a clean place on the block.

N8s89GT

Thanks PRO50SC!

What's the easiest way to rule out the solenoid or starter? after I relocate the battery cable to the correct spot...

- having the negative cable where it is...could that cause this issue or does it sound primarily like the Solenoid or Starter?

Thanks Again!

notchback50

sounds like you either have some bad cables or connections. check your cable that goes to the starter. usaully if you turn the engine over and hear one click thats the solenoid if you hear many clicks usaully the battery. check to make sure your getting power to your solenoid and starter. to test your starter just use a test light have someone turn the key over and make sure you have power on both sides. terminals could be a problem also i found out that those cheap painted ones arent that great.

FORD TOUGH

If it is making a clicking sound it is probably a loose cable, if the battrery you tried in it was good.

N8s89GT

Using the new red optima battery it clicked a bunch of times. However, I was able to eventually get it started using a portable charger/trickle charger. but after about 2-3 starts it would never fire again. This happened recently after changing the timing cover gasket and relocating the negative battery cable to the AC compressor bracket. I think I will try to get new battery cables (the stock ones are crap) and hook them up to the correct spots...and try again. If it still doesn't work I will check the Solenoid and the Starter. Is it true that the negative battery cable connects on the timing cover?

N8s89GT

Thanks for all the help guys. I will start at the cables/connections and work my way through to the Solenoid & Starter...if the cables/connections don't solve it.

mjr46

your problem is an ineffective ground!! put the ground wire connected back to the block not the a/c compressor

MBDiagMan

Yes, start by ensuring a good solid ground from the negative post of the battery to the BLOCK.

Once that is in place, if you still have problems, then it is time to begin proper troubleshooting rather than all this shooting in the dark.

Use a digital voltmeter(DVM,) or at least a good Analog meter with a DC scale. A DVM can be bought these days for $15 or $20 and unlike an analog meter, you don't have to worry about polarity.

With your meter, do voltage drop tests across each link of the circuit. To do this, put your meter on the DC scale and start by placing one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the post at the other end of that cable on the solenoid. Have someone turn the key to start while you observe the meter. If you have a very low voltage, like less than a volt, preferably WAY less than a volt, then that connection is good and you can move on to the next link. If the voltage is high, like 8 or 9 volts or higher, then the voltage is being dropped across that point, telling you that there is high resistance there. High resistance prevents current flow, thus is the weak link in the chain.

If you had low resistance at the last link, move on to the next link such as a lead on one big post of the solenoid and a lead on the other post. If you have a high voltage drop there, then the solenoid is your problem. You should then check the small signal wire to the solenoid to make sure it is getting voltage from the key. If it is then the solenoid is the problem. If it is not then the key switch circuit is the problem.

Keep on moving down the circuit with your voltage drop tests looking for a high resistance (high voltage drop.)

At the starter itself, you SHOULD get a voltage drop of 9 volts or more. The starter is where you WANT a voltage drop because that is where you want to expend the energy. If you DO have a good voltage drop across the starter itself and a hot battery, then you can suspect the starter itself.

Hope this helps.

N8s89GT

Awesome! thanks guys for all the help and advice. I will re-connect the Negative cable to the correct location (timing cover, right?) and see if that fixes it first. My cables are getting old as well...so I might change those out too.