I have a 91 GT. I just had a fresh 5.0 swapped in with gt40 heads and an e303 cam. We used an explorer intake and unhooked the smog pump (it is still on the car but its unhooked). When i got the car back it had an occasional idle surge problem but ran and sounded great. After a week it seems to have lost power and runs rough. The idle surge has gotten much worse. I found 2 broken vaccum lines at the rubber connector on the right side of the engine bay. They are on the engine side of the connector and I have no idea where they are supposed to go. I pulled the codes and got these: 34, 54, 85. I know the 34 has to do with the egr system so I was considering an egr delete. Is this a good idea? Is there a block off plate that I will need?? As far as the vaccum lines, does anyone know where I can find a good vaccum diagram (There isn't one under the hood) or tell me where to run these lines.
Thanks guys!

 

try these the first is the main page that brings you to the second



http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...uumDiagram.jpg

 

Thanks!! That is a great site! After looking at the diagram i was wondering if I could remove the following : EGR valve, EGR vacuum regulator, HVAC controls, TAD solenoid, TAB solenoid, Diverter valve, bypass valve. I see that the TAD and TAB solennoids as well as the EGR vacuum regulator connect directly to the EEC. Would this lead to problems? I'd really like to just keep the basic stuff that i need as long as it doesnt affect performance or mileage. All these vacuum lines are a pain!!

 

Why would you want to remove the HVAC controls? Personally, I like the use of my heat and defroster.

 

1.EGR VALVE-Throw away. Plug EGR Simulator in its wiring harness. Bolt Steel Egr Blockoff plate in its place
$50 Parts

If you are creative, plug the simulator in its harness, cut the harness leaving 4 inches of wire, attach near the ecm, that way you rid the engine bay of those wires.

2.EGR Vacumm Regulator is on the Valve itself $0

3.HVAC Controls- Is this a drag car, I would definitely want heat and defog, you cant do without. Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning.

4.TAD SOLENOIDS-Throw both away,plug the vac lines at the source=intake manifold.
Thermactor Air Diverter

5.TAB SOLENOIDS- Throw away or leave plugged in to prevent codes.
Thermactor Air Bypass


Get a set box of vacumm line plugs, and have fun. However, disconecting the wiring of the solenoids may or may now make the cel illuminate, have fun.

DRIVE ABILITY ISSUES= NONE, AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO VACUUM LEAKS THE ECM WILL ADJUST AFTER A FEW MILES.
ALL MY STUFF IS GONE.

 

1. waste of time for the egr simulator...why, cause ecm deletes function...only thing it'll log is a code
2.EVR is not on the valve it is on the fenderwell passanger side...you are thinking of the pintle position sensor.

 

I deleted the TAB and TAD solenoids and bypassed the egr valve. Still waiting for my egr blockoff to arrive. Still have the idle surge. When I first start the car in the morning it will run and idle fine as long as i want it to.. When i cut it off and restart the engine it immediately starts the idle surge. After i drive a few minutes it is fine again.

question 2......I had an upper intake leak so i pulled the intake off and replaced the gasket. I noticed that the inside of the intake runner on the number 8 cylinder was wet with fuel. Injector problem?? Seems to be running a little rich.

 

could be^^^run a koer test and check for codes = first thing you should do

 

Problem Solved!!!! The k&n filter had way too much oil on it and caused an oily buildup on the maf wires. I should have known to check that first!! thanks for the input guys! Now its time for gears!!

 

kool!!! sounds like you have a pretty nice setup!!!