5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Diff question.

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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 08:01 PM
  #1  
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Ze2222
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Default Diff question.

K guys i decided it was time to upgrage axles, so i went with strange 35 splines, i also picked up a full spool from moser, now everything went fine till i was install it back into the diff, i went to reuse my side carrier shims, cause well i didn't have anything else and while trying to tap it in it broke Opps. My question is can i just go purchase another one or do i have to rip into another diff? Second of all when i removed my old one i measured my backlash to be at .005 which seems a lil tight to me am i correct with that assumption?

what would be the desired backlash i should be looking for? Could i go to a local trans shop here and pray they sell me some?
Old Mar 21, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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you could measure shim thickness and purchase rear end carrier shims and install it, but not all factory rears have the exact same thickness shims, when switching carriers do do manufactoring variances you actually need to set rear up again if any differences are encountered, .008-.012 is spec for backlash
Old Mar 21, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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well i was reading up on the net and they say the best way to determine shim thickness is to start with a .265 shim on the left hand side, and just keep sticking shims on the right side till u have a slight drag, then check pattern , and adjust as needed? what u think of that way? or is there a easier way i don't see?
Old Mar 21, 2009 | 09:47 PM
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?????? Ne one?
Old Mar 21, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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I think that way is BS as not all ring and pinions are created equal, I start with the stock shims and and add or subtract from one side or the other based on reading the dial indicator gives, you need 2 tools to start, in order to properly set rear ends up to spec, 1 = dial indicator 2 = vernier caliper to measure shim thickness.
Old Mar 22, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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That was the original way i was going to do it, but while installing the rh shim it was so tight that i was using a hammer and a brass punch to tap it in, well i guess it got jammed or misaligned and i ended up breakin it my bad. I'll get the exact shim again and try again. hopefully i can get it in this time. I just figured it shouldn't be that tight getting it in ? or am i wrong.
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