hypothetically speaking...
05-06-2009, 08:35 AM
#1
in limbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
hypothetically speaking...
if you needed to replace a fram rail from the firewall forward....how would you go about it?
im pretty sure they are rosette welded into place and i have an idea of how i'd like to go about it....i was thinking of removing whats left of the existing rail and get some 2x4" steel and weld it into its place and then cut a channel at the front for the rad support like it currently sits now.
what kind of metal would i need to use? any suggestions?
im pretty sure they are rosette welded into place and i have an idea of how i'd like to go about it....i was thinking of removing whats left of the existing rail and get some 2x4" steel and weld it into its place and then cut a channel at the front for the rad support like it currently sits now.
what kind of metal would i need to use? any suggestions?
05-06-2009, 01:38 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,459
Are you trying to replicate the stock frame rail?
You may be better off finding a stang that was a donor car or a rear end wreck and cutting off the piece of frame rail you need. Then depending on thickness of the frame rail, you can probably MIG it on.
If you're trying to fab it, take a mic or ruler and figure out the thickness of the piece you are taking off.
You may be better off finding a stang that was a donor car or a rear end wreck and cutting off the piece of frame rail you need. Then depending on thickness of the frame rail, you can probably MIG it on.
If you're trying to fab it, take a mic or ruler and figure out the thickness of the piece you are taking off.
05-06-2009, 02:04 PM
#5
in limbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
i was actually looks at doing it differently than the stock set up. i find it overly complicated for what it is. layers steel rosette welded together. i thought i would get some 2x4 boxed steel(with whatever thickness is required) and slit the front and rosette weld is on like it current is done up.
where it attached to the existing frame back at the firewall, cut out the rosettes and slip the new 2x4 steel into its place and rosette weld it.
the reason im lookin at doing it this way is i eliminate the trough that is created under the fender apron, im hiding the wires so i dont need it anymore.
the other reason i look at doing it this way is it very well could be strong being boxed steel. all i would need to make provisions for the K member bolts(easy enough just cut one side out to access the bolts) and notch the front to slip in the rad support.
thoughts?
where it attached to the existing frame back at the firewall, cut out the rosettes and slip the new 2x4 steel into its place and rosette weld it.
the reason im lookin at doing it this way is i eliminate the trough that is created under the fender apron, im hiding the wires so i dont need it anymore.
the other reason i look at doing it this way is it very well could be strong being boxed steel. all i would need to make provisions for the K member bolts(easy enough just cut one side out to access the bolts) and notch the front to slip in the rad support.
thoughts?
05-06-2009, 08:40 PM
#9
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
make a jig if you plan to remove it entirely so as to maintain the squarness of it all so it'll all line back up, take measurements before removal and make clean cuts, that's basically what I did when I cut the whole rear trunk and lower 1/4's off a 68 cougar and had to reconstruct it all.
