ponyboy88

It had been 10 months since she started....and things are a little rough.

Since she started last i have installed:
3G alternator
Taurus Fan
Aluminum Radiator
Bypassed the smog pump
Deleted the A/C and moved the smog pump

(not a hole bunch for ten months i know)

Problem 1: The AMP light is on the dash, will this go away in time or....? worried i messed something up with the 3G, seems to be charging, at idle (which is low and searching 500-700rpm) my volt meter bounces a bit, but once at 900 its constant.

Problem 2: I wired my electric fan control unit to the soleniod just to make sure it works, what is an easy 12v ignition source for me to wire the fan into?

Ive got a few interesting noises going on as well, but those are my priorities first...then we'll see. Any help, appreciated.
N/A

Tony71502

I'm pretty sure the electrical fan is supposed to have its hotwire connected to the solenoid. Although I haven't gotten around to this mod yet and am not 100% sure on that.

The volt meter bounce is obviously because of the surging idle.

The surging idle I would have to say is attributed to the EGR delete if you did not cap the vacuum holes. It could also be from a vacuum leak you may have caused while working on the car.

Check for vac leaks, make sure the upper intake manifold vacuum line to EGR is plugged. Make sure the holes in the back of heads are plugged.

ponyboy88

Ive got the hot wire directly to the Battery. As far as i can figure the control unit does all its 'controlling' on the ground end. However, there is an ignition source lead as well (assuming that it tells the control unit that the car is off, and shuts the fan off) i could run it through a fuse in the car, was just hoping there was something i could tap into under the hood.

Thanks for your help i will search for a vacum leak in the morning before work, my stang had the intake and tb swapped about 4 months before it was removed from the road, so it may prove difficult. I did eliminate the vacum hoses that ran off the Smog pump hoses, will this be a problem.

As far as the smog pump bolts in the heads, i just hand tightened the bolts that had held the smog equipment prior to removal... do i need to tighten these and will i need to use lower bolts.


AMP LIGHT?????

ponyboy88

tried finding a vacuum leak [using carb cleaner] this morning to no avail.

Is it possible to eliminate the egr valve completely and still have the ecu function properly? would that possibly solve the idle issue?

Tony71502

The electric fan should have a relay that governs when the fan is off or on based on engine coolant temperature. I would think that this fan has an in line fuse in it. In which case you run it from the starter solenoid.

The EGR system taps into the vacuum and also the exhaust system. The EGR vacuum is fed off of the underside of the upper intake manifold. If this is not plugged/capped in order to eliminate the EGR vacuum, any unplugged vacuum line in the EGR will cause a vacuum leak. The bolts that hold the tube on the back of the heads are not in the actual exhaust gas holes. The bolts just go through the flange on the tube and hold it to the heads. The actual exhaust gas holes are fairly larger and feed directly to the tube without a gasket or any other mating device. There are threads on the inside of these holes so you can plug them with a bolt. These threads are probably caked with carbon deposits and are a PITA to get clean. The tube coming from the mid pipe also needs to be plugged or you will have an exhaust leak.

By eliminating the EGR balogne, you will have a check engine light unless you buy an eliminator to plug into the stock EGR harness, or use three resistors on the EGR harness which gives the same effect. Both scenarios eliminate the code that causes the check engine light, however, they trigger an "EGR Closed" code that will be present but will not cause the check engine light to turn on.