95 mustang GT with lowered with M&M camber kit, new tires front and back 275s out back 245s up front.

Rear has upper and lower tubular arms instaleld (ebay) and springs. All new shocks.

Hard turn, rear feels its still walkin. What gives? Do ebay poly arms suck? they fit well, they're greased and everything. It feels jerking the wheel left and right that somethings not planted. all arms are torqued.

 

Got sway bars??

 

yeah its got sway bars...lol. Maybe its me. Driving my fox, it handles pretty well. Driving my girls SN I feel like its a land yaht. I put it in the air. brought it up to 55 on a lift and hit the brakes. The rear budges...slightly. But it does. Shouldnt this thing be effin planted? IDK if thats a way to test but I did anyway while on the lift checking torque on everything

 

is it a 4 link?...

well then theres your problem, go to a 3 link or a PB/TA set up if you want it to handle

 

I feel as if my 4 cyl stock not lowered handles better...at least more predictable. Springs performance alignment plates arms, tokicko blues and its just eh? Fail. Looks amazing with the drop though.

 

This is your problem

yes.

Did you set your pinion angle?

 

Did not know I had to.

I dont understand...poly is poly. Does it share the characteristic of rubber as to having a soft or hard compound? Maybe the bushings I have are soft crap.

Before in a hard corner stock arms, rear would effin bounce and shake the whole car to the point of steering to correct. Way better now. But not as it should be.

I'll google setting pinion angle now

 

maybe you need to stop driving your fox like a porshe?

 

This is my girl's car.
I got a TF build 88 for speed similar to 302Army's.
I daily drive a cherry mint 93 4 cyl im comparing the handling to the SN to.
My gf is the mint sn95 owner. Long PA twisty roads.

Shes a lead foot. No brakes in a 25mph road bend on a 45mph road. When you hit a imperfection, cornering as she does, and the car decides to walk around with 275/45s and 245 45s brand new,
somethings wrong.

There is a throttle stop in place. Good *** driver, but can be cocky...and lack some skill. One of those.

 

Poly is NOT poly. Polyurethane literally means many-urethane and is used to describe a SERIES of plastics within the plastic family that are composed of chains of molecules. It simply has to have multiple urethane chains to be classified as poly....but based on the chemical makeup polyurethane can be anything from a pudding or jelly like consistency all the way to something like concrete. How many urethane chains and how they're bonded molecularly determines how the material behaves.

It's just like saying "steel." Well, what kind? There's hundreds of different varieties...as long as it's within certain min and max chemical components it's called steel. 5140, 4340, 4140, mild, nodular iron....so on and so forth.

And most solid rear axle cars, even with a 3 link, are going to have bouncy rears around turns with rough roads.

Suspension balance will play a big role, as well as compliance...a softer setup will absorb bad roads more easily, but promotes more load transfer, which reduces handling and smoother roads. Tire pressure front vs rear makes a difference. A car with more oversteer will be worse about the back end skipping around in a turn, shock valving and spring selection matter, sway bar size front to rear etc etc. There's a crap ton of variables. Roll center as well, and roll couple percentage play a part as well.