5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

anyone here rebuilt their engine?

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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #11  
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1987notchback
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for what its worth if you want a little more free info pics etc. muscle mustangs and fast fords had a multi part article on a budget build short block. if you go to their website the article is called recession special.
Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #12  
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When it comes to the bearings and what not it is a good idea to measure the clearances but is not absolutely needed if you know what you have. If you have the stock crank and he machine shop did not take anything off the crank then you can use stock sized bearings. Later on once you start building motors and ordering everything then you will want to start learning how to measure the clearances.
Old Nov 7, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by projectresto83
When it comes to the bearings and what not it is a good idea to measure the clearances but is not absolutely needed if you know what you have. If you have the stock crank and he machine shop did not take anything off the crank then you can use stock sized bearings. Later on once you start building motors and ordering everything then you will want to start learning how to measure the clearances.
ok thanks for that. i didnt see anything on the crank. it looked good when i took it apart. hoping the machine shop doesnt need to take anything off. make it easy on my first time. i havent gotten anything back from the machine shop yet. will go pick it up tomorrow and see
Old Nov 7, 2011 | 05:04 PM
  #14  
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one more thing. what about the thrust bearing? since this is just a stock rebuild and if nothing is taken off the crank do i still need to measure endplay? and how do i do this? and what tool? im running an auto c6 with stock converter. i know its more important with auto transmissions..
Old Nov 7, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #15  
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You should always check the thrust bearing everytime.
Get/barrow a dial indicator and get a couple good sized screwdrivers and do it
Check but I think .003-.007 are the tolerances, I would go about .005.
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 06:14 AM
  #16  
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I remember when my thrust bearing went bad... .022" of endplay is no bueno...
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #17  
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Crank walk is a biatch....
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by projectresto83
Crank walk is a biatch....
its from running the clutch cable too tight. It's the biggest flaw and most common mistake that people make when installing adjustable cables with new quadrants and firewall adjusters.
Old Nov 9, 2011 | 01:00 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by AdderMk2
its from running the clutch cable too tight. It's the biggest flaw and most common mistake that people make when installing adjustable cables with new quadrants and firewall adjusters.
I have another mustang that I might have to rebuild too. I bought it from someone. It holds 40lbs of pressure on startup but the longer I drive it the oil pressure slowly goes down. When I go wot the oil pressure drops gradually almost to zero. This one is a five speed. Has 114k all stock down to the silencer. could this be the oil pump or bearing failure? and if I bought a OEM non adjustable clutch cable from American muscle would I still have to worry about crank walk if something isn't adjusted right?
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