aode08

Car is acting like its turning off and on, backfiring, stalling, fuel relay clicking on and off, check engine light solid, ecm will not enter into test mode, rather a ground is ran directly to diagnosis, or I try the normal route.Im stumped!Im sure some one has seen this before, the video beelow is just with the key on, engine off, but car does the same with engine running.I have a brand new tfi and ingition switch on it, new cap and rotor button as well.

All grounds are solid, battery and connections great. The tach and check engine lights do this even rather or not the salt and pepper shackers are connected, so no sensor is at fault, the same for distributor unplugged, fuel pump relay disconnected, etc etc.

from my phone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1YuO...ature=youtu.be

aode08

the tach jumps with the key in the on position, the check engine light on solid.

video being uploaded to youtube tonight.

aode08

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1YuO...ature=youtu.be

here is the video,what do yall think

aode08

Update-dealer master mechanic reviewed the video, he said to unplug the ecm,undo my alternator plugs, so no running compnents and their relays are working,crank the car over for 15 seconds ten times,feel if any ground cables are warm if not ohm them out to battery directly, then the same for positive wires and connectors after the cycles.

He says I have a bad ground,or battery terminal, shorting cell in battery,alternator sending AC voltage to my DC electrical system, or alternator rectifier going out.

But swears up and down it appears to be a dead battery cell, or floating ground or positive main power supply! omg, i hate electrical problems!Ill have to look at her once more all over, every ground and positive connection, terminals and wires

dawson1112

well doesn't seem like the car was running in the video, so it cant be ac current. You only have ac current when the alternator is spinning , the bridge rectifiers turn that in to dc current.

If the car was running then the batt light being on would indicate a faulty alternator. I have had shorting batteries cause some funky problems though ,, Id start by having it checked or replaced.

aode08

the car was off in the video, shows the tach jumping and check engine light flickering.

I agree, its not the alternator,im having the battery checked as its under a 3 year warranty, and also checking the grounds and positive mains.Previously, I have learned the 5.0 have some nasty ground monsters, there are 4 very important grounds.

1 The battery to firewall, head to firewall O2 ground,ecm ground to inner chassis,and the ground to engine block, all have to be solid and the battery connection solid, no corrosion.

The cold weather killed my DVOM meter, so I have to buy a new one and update tom or so, btw MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL,.

aode08

ok here is where we stand so far,battery check-good,replaced anyway with new terminals and new ground wires to get excellent ohm readings even though mine where ok, I like solid connections.

This is the Ford Coil Pack Test.

1.Disconnect the ignition coil connector, then inspect for dirt, corrosion and damage.
FAILED, CRUSTY WHITE STUFF ALL OVER

2.To check the coil's primary resistance, connect an ohmmeter to the coil's positive and negative terminals. If the ohmmeter reading is 0.3-1.0-, the primary resistance is okay.
FAILED,AFTER CLEANING THE TERMINALS, NO OHMS EXIST
3.To check the coil's secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter to the coil's negative and high voltage (output) terminals. If the ohmmeter reading is 8,000-11,500-, the secondary resistance is okay.
FAILED 7,400 OHMS IS THE BEST I CAN READ

Looks like its time to buy a coil pack, the connector pigtail, and the rubber boot covermissing.
Im not sure if this is a symptom of water intrusion or a fried coil.The grounding to it on the fenderwell checked perfect as well.

This is the next step, before rediagnosing.

aode08

aode08

Still investigating, so far I have found a bad coil pack, even though the timing light showed solid spard during the faults, the ohm meter failed the PRIMARY AND SCONDARY OHM TESTcoil, and the coil positive is fried.

Im also replacing the ignition control module on the distributor that controls the coil function, as a faulty coil could have spiked it and caused it to shut on and off ecm etc.

Im told, which would duplicate my problem, we shall see.

Anyone have a link to ohm testing the pickup inside the distribuor?, the link is missing off the forum, it was here years ago.Or have the ohm spec for it? A new dizzy here is just $40
new pickup, steel gear and all.

Thanks

88 orangepeel notch

This is a great thread, thanks for the updates as this will really help the next guy. And that's a good price for the dizzy, may be worth getting that to narrow this problem down. I did have a computer go bad once, but it didn't act up like your car is. My car was doing funny things like running rich, erratic fuel pump, and other little gremlins. After chasing those for awhile, it ended up being the computer. Autozone had it for $95, all problems disappeared and car has been trouble free for 4 yrs now.