Car sat for years now what?
#1
Car sat for years now what?
Admin, please move post if necessary.
I've got an old 89 GT. It was a sick car, but unfortunately time and money got away from me. It has been sitting for years, about 10-11 to be exact. It hasn't had anything done to it in that time, not turned over/started or even moved, just sat in the garage collecting dust...
Mods are as follows:
331 stroker with a vortech t-trim - around 12lbs boost
Trick Flow Track Heat Upper/Lower Intake
Trick Flow Heads
Aeromotive Fuel system
plus a lot more
Last Dyno'd 593hp/536tq at wheels
My question is, what would be best to do with it???
Pull the engine and have it gone over at reputable shop?
Just go over it: new oil change, purge fuel system, plugs???
Last I recall is it needs a new distributor, aside from that, it was fine. I know that may not be the case now, but I want to know what everyone's thoughts are as to what the best thing to do now is. My plan is to get it back on the road by this time next year.
I ASK, PLEASE DON'T BEAT ME UP TOO MUCH ABOUT LETTING IT SIT SO LONG. My family and other things came first, but I'm getting to the point now that I really want to work on getting it back on the road without breaking the bank.
Thanks for the input
I've got an old 89 GT. It was a sick car, but unfortunately time and money got away from me. It has been sitting for years, about 10-11 to be exact. It hasn't had anything done to it in that time, not turned over/started or even moved, just sat in the garage collecting dust...
Mods are as follows:
331 stroker with a vortech t-trim - around 12lbs boost
Trick Flow Track Heat Upper/Lower Intake
Trick Flow Heads
Aeromotive Fuel system
plus a lot more
Last Dyno'd 593hp/536tq at wheels
My question is, what would be best to do with it???
Pull the engine and have it gone over at reputable shop?
Just go over it: new oil change, purge fuel system, plugs???
Last I recall is it needs a new distributor, aside from that, it was fine. I know that may not be the case now, but I want to know what everyone's thoughts are as to what the best thing to do now is. My plan is to get it back on the road by this time next year.
I ASK, PLEASE DON'T BEAT ME UP TOO MUCH ABOUT LETTING IT SIT SO LONG. My family and other things came first, but I'm getting to the point now that I really want to work on getting it back on the road without breaking the bank.
Thanks for the input
#2
Just go over it: new oil change, purge fuel system, air filter, plugs???
I'd start with the engine, I'd change the oil, remove the plugs, oil each cylinder and try to turn it by hand. If it turns, I'd pull the valve covers and add some oil on the top end. I'd pump out some of the gas with the fuel pump to see how bad it is. You'll be ahead to drain it, you may need to replace the tank. Good oil, good gas, clean air, engine turns, get a new battery and see if it will start.
#3
Thanks Chromeshadow. I'll have to slowly start on that. When I put oil in the cylinders, how much do you think I should add, 2 Tablespoons?? I realize and hope I don't have a whole slew of other issues that aren't foreseen. I did notice when I moved it that the rear must've leaked, but on the bright side, no other leaks under the car.
#4
I'd use an oil can and put a few squirts into each cylinder. You don't need a lot, too much and it will take longer to get it out of the engine. Don't put the plugs in until it's turning freely. Turn it by hand a few turns before you crank it with the starter. Make sure you have oil pressure, then put the plugs back in.
#5
I'm with Chrome, oil the cylinders, fresh oil, gas, crank by hand for a bit, then see what happens. I bet you'll be surprised.
Go thru and give the vacuum lines a once over also.
I'd expect a couple more oil leaks to show up once she's running. Once seals dry up and crack, they're done. Which you won't see till she lives again.
Good luck and post back with the outcome.
Go thru and give the vacuum lines a once over also.
I'd expect a couple more oil leaks to show up once she's running. Once seals dry up and crack, they're done. Which you won't see till she lives again.
Good luck and post back with the outcome.
#6
One thing I do to get oil flowing, especially to the lifters, is to use a drill on a lower speed to turn the oil pump driveshaft. You have to take the dizzy out obviously but it gets oil primed without having to crank it.
#7
Thanks guys, it will be a slow process. However, I will definitely plan to post updates as they come. I'm in process of cleaning up all of the interior and installing new front seats which I've also had for years. Once I'm able to "sit" in the car again, I'll reply to this thread.
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks again for your help.
#8
Thanks for the thread, I'm going through the exact thing right now. My father in law gave me a one owner '89 LX 5.0 that's been garaged without the gas tank for 11+ years bc the fuel pump went out. I did exactly as the first person recommended. Put some fluid in the cylinders and let it set for 2 days, then turned the engine manually. It turned super smooth without any catches so I cranked it a couple of times without the plugs to blow the fluid out. Replaced the plugs today and plan to wrap up the new gas tank install tomorrow and hopefully fire it up. Good luck on your end also!
#9
Just a thought on the fuel tank if you think there is going to be much gunk in it.
My brother drives diesel trucks daily. At one point he tried using the biodiesel mixes. They were a bit cheaper than straight diesel. What he found was he was going through fuel filters about 3x faster on biodiesel than straight diesel which offset the cost of fuel savings so he switch back.
anyway biodiesel is like a solvent in the fuel tank. strips all the bad stuff out.
So, to the point. It might be work running some biodiesel through the tank and then letting the fuel pump, pump it out (remove fuel pump hose from fuel rail) and flush the tank that way.
I plan on trying this if I even encounter a situation where fuel filters are plugging up too fast.
My brother drives diesel trucks daily. At one point he tried using the biodiesel mixes. They were a bit cheaper than straight diesel. What he found was he was going through fuel filters about 3x faster on biodiesel than straight diesel which offset the cost of fuel savings so he switch back.
anyway biodiesel is like a solvent in the fuel tank. strips all the bad stuff out.
So, to the point. It might be work running some biodiesel through the tank and then letting the fuel pump, pump it out (remove fuel pump hose from fuel rail) and flush the tank that way.
I plan on trying this if I even encounter a situation where fuel filters are plugging up too fast.