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Originally Posted by wbrockstar
(Post 8668139)
If either image in post #8 is blurry,when you view it as is or zoom in,just click on the image and it will open up on another page which will make the blurry view clear up so you can see it.Disconnect the iac valve harness or a injector harness, connect a multimeter black lead to ground and the red lead to the red wire on either harness above & turn the key to run,the meter should read 12volts if the eec relay is working.If it doesn't,
check the fusible link for the eec relay to see if its blown.Every component in the engine bay you see that has a red wire connected to it,is powered by the eec relay.So if none of these items are working,the eec relay,fusible link for the relay or one of the other 3 wires connected to the relay is suspect. |
Originally Posted by Coleeakle
(Post 8668140)
Great info! Thank you!
I can’t even seem to find the wiring for the ica valve ... ughhhh |
Originally Posted by Coleeakle
(Post 8668154)
I can’t even seem to find the wiring for the ica valve ... ughhhh
harness starts near the #1 injector harness plug. The wire colors are red & white/lt blue.Its #16 shown on the diagram.The wires for the iac start at pin #6 & #1 on the black 10 pin connector.#6 is the iac signal wire and #1 is the iac 12volt vpwr wire.If you cant locate these wires,you can run new wires from pin 6 & pin 1,starting at the 10 pin connector plug. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/mustang...1fd2d0dd7e.gif https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/mustang...96f9115afb.jpg |
I ended up finding everything. Replaced some feasible links, got some grounds figured out, now have power going to my Ecm. Only problem I have now is getting fuel. One terminal on my relay is getting power, and the other showing ground. I add power to the ground and then I can hear the fuel pump running. Don’t know if there is another fusible link or if there is a ground issue or what.
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DONT apply 12 volts to the relay Tan/Green wire.Thats the ECU controlled ground that triggers the relay to power up.You can damage the ECU by putting 12 volts to that wire.
The fuel pump relay for the 86-91 models is under the driver seat.When the fuel pump is running and the relay is functioning properly,it should have 3 wires showing 12 volts and 1 wire showing ground. **The relay should have** 1) 1 12 volt always hot wire Runs from the orange/lt blue 18ga fusible link at the starter solenoid to the fp relay...... 02) 1 12 volt switched (key on) wire Runs from the eec relay to the fp relay...... 3) 1 ground Runs from pin 22 of the ecu to the fp relay...... 4) 1 12 volt output to fuel pump wire Runs from the fp relay to the fuel pump...... BTW- the fp relay ground is what triggers the fp relay to energize and this ground comes from and is controlled entirely by the ECU.The ECU can turn this ground on/off at will and it uses the pulse from the pip sensor (inside of the distributor) as the signal that the engine is being cranked or running,which is the ECU's signal to turn the ground on to energize the relay and subsequently the fuel pump.For trouble shooting purposes,you can also trigger this ground manually by running a jumper wire from a ground or the neg battery post to the fuel pump trigger terminal on the diagnostic port under the hood,where you connect a scanner to,to extract codes.So if you need to manually trigger the relay,just turn the key on and ground that terminal by using a jumper wire.A diagram of the diagnostic port is posted below. Here is a great trouble shooting writeup for the fuel pump relay/pump with wiring color descriptions. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...gs.html#/enter https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mustang...2d3c618e4b.gif |
Originally Posted by wbrockstar
(Post 8668285)
DONT apply 12 volts to the relay Tan/Green wire.Thats the ECU controlled ground that triggers the relay to power up.You can damage the ECU by putting 12 volts to that wire.
The fuel pump relay for the 86-91 models is under the driver seat.When the fuel pump is running and the relay is functioning properly,it should have 3 wires showing 12 volts and 1 wire showing ground. **The relay should have** 1) 1 12 volt always hot wire Runs from the orange/lt blue 18ga fusible link at the starter solenoid to the fp relay...... 02) 1 12 volt switched (key on) wire Runs from the eec relay to the fp relay...... 3) 1 ground Runs from pin 22 of the ecu to the fp relay...... 4) 1 12 volt output to fuel pump wire Runs from the fp relay to the fuel pump...... BTW- the fp relay ground is what triggers the fp relay to energize and this ground comes from and is controlled entirely by the ECU.The ECU can turn this ground on/off at will and it uses the pulse from the pip sensor (inside of the distributor) as the signal that the engine is being cranked or running,which is the ECU's signal to turn the ground on to energize the relay and subsequently the fuel pump.For trouble shooting purposes,you can also trigger this ground manually by running a jumper wire from a ground or the neg battery post to the fuel pump trigger terminal on the diagnostic port under the hood,where you connect a scanner to,to extract codes.So if you need to manually trigger the relay,just turn the key on and ground that terminal by using a jumper wire.A diagram of the diagnostic port is posted below. Here is a great trouble shooting writeup for the fuel pump relay/pump with wiring color descriptions. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...gs.html#/enter https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mustang...2d3c618e4b.gif |
Looks like I’m not getting the constant power to my fuel pump relay. I’m getting power when key is on though.
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Originally Posted by Coleeakle
(Post 8668314)
Looks like I’m not getting the constant power to my fuel pump relay. I’m getting power when key is on though.
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Originally Posted by Coleeakle
(Post 8668315)
and also power to only going to one side of the inertia switch
The red wire at one side of the inertia switch should have 12v from the orange/black eec relay wire when the key is turned on.This is a switched 12v wire.The red/black wire at the other side of the inertia switch,should also have 12v when the key is turned on. So if you've got 12v present on the red wire side of the inertia switch with the key on,but no 12v on the red/black wire side of the switch,the inertia switch is either tripped or defective.It works like a circuit breaker,but when it trips,it opens up and remains open until you push the reset button back down and reset the switch. This allows 12v to pass through the switch and on to the fuel pump relay.The inertia switch on the 86-90 models kills power to the fp relay.The inertia switch on the 91-93 models kills power to the fuel pump only. When you push the red button down,you should feel/hear a click signaling the switch was reset.If you dont hear it click after a few times of doing it,the inertia switch is bad.If its defective and you dont wanna buy a new inertia switch,just disconnect the harness plug from the switch and insert a jumper wire across the terminals in the harness plug and this will bypass the switch and let 12v pass on to the fp relay. Are you saying the fuel pump relay orange/lt blue wire isnt getting constant power?? That power comes from the starter solenoid orange/lt blue 18ga fusible link,so locate that wire/fusible link combo and check/replace the fusible link if power isnt making it to the fuel pump relay at this wire position. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/mustang...5be4abc56e.gif |
Okay great info. I’m getting power from the red wire on the switch but nothing on the red and black side. My switch does not make any clicking or anything close to that. I’ve replaced that inline fuse. I’m really thinking i have an defective switch.
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