5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Going Turbo

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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #21  
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ok
Old Dec 16, 2005 | 02:20 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: Going Turbo

ORIGINAL: Tims 88GT

i am not going to run a sc because a sc is harder on a motor than a turbo, thats why im spending the money to run turbos, i know i can make more power for cheeper but i want the relibalty of a turbo. i dont race my car it is just a street car. i think a turbocharged car is more fun to drive to. and you make so much more tq with turbos as well.
i find that to be quite new information and different than ive always heard. what makes a turbo more reliable than a roots type?
Old Dec 16, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #23  
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ORIGINAL: OnyxCobra

ORIGINAL: Tims 88GT

i am not going to run a sc because a sc is harder on a motor than a turbo, thats why im spending the money to run turbos, i know i can make more power for cheeper but i want the relibalty of a turbo. i dont race my car it is just a street car. i think a turbocharged car is more fun to drive to. and you make so much more tq with turbos as well.
i find that to be quite new information and different than ive always heard. what makes a turbo more reliable than a roots type?
a sc or blower is belt driven, so obviously its always being run by the motor therefore using hp and continuously stressing the motor. the belt will wear, especially if you're running higher boost levels from slipping . turbo has great street manners since it runs like a na motor until you punch it and it will use less gas. plus they have the sleeper advantage. the only thing you need to remember with a turbo is too let the car idle (to cool) for a minute or two before you shut it off (after running it hard). otherwise sludge could build up in the oil lines and starve the turbo of oil. imports use turbo timers to do this automatically, but its not worth the wiring hassle for mustangs. most turbos can go over 100k miles w/out a rebuild if it is taken car of. but...they are very expensive if you cannot fabricate and install pieces. so as much as i love mine, i wouldn't recommend one unless you're looking for serious power, and/or can do things yourself, and/or have a lot of money.
Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #24  
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exactly, a sc is belt drivin which pulls on the crank, another reason i want to get turbos is for the sleeper part of it, i mean think about it, a guy in his LS1 vett/firebird pulls up next to you on the hight way gives you a lil nond and he starts to take off thinkin that your a punk with a stock 5.0 with exhaust and then you pull back up next to him and he gives it a lil so you give it a lil then you just punch it and totaly wast him, how cool would that be. and i know all about letting the car idle so you do not boil the oil out of the turbos and all that good stuff. the main thing is dont be in boost a lot before you know you are going to park the car, take it easy because turbos get really hot when you are boosting. Turbostang21 do you have any kind of fuel management? did you build your kit?

ORIGINAL: turbostang21


a sc or blower is belt driven, so obviously its always being run by the motor therefore using hp and continuously stressing the motor. the belt will wear, especially if you're running higher boost levels from slipping . turbo has great street manners since it runs like a na motor until you punch it and it will use less gas. plus they have the sleeper advantage. the only thing you need to remember with a turbo is too let the car idle (to cool) for a minute or two before you shut it off (after running it hard). otherwise sludge could build up in the oil lines and starve the turbo of oil. imports use turbo timers to do this automatically, but its not worth the wiring hassle for mustangs. most turbos can go over 100k miles w/out a rebuild if it is taken car of. but...they are very expensive if you cannot fabricate and install pieces. so as much as i love mine, i wouldn't recommend one unless you're looking for serious power, and/or can do things yourself, and/or have a lot of money.
Old Dec 17, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: Going Turbo


ORIGINAL: Tims 88GT

exactly, a sc is belt drivin which pulls on the crank, another reason i want to get turbos is for the sleeper part of it, i mean think about it, a guy in his LS1 vett/firebird pulls up next to you on the hight way gives you a lil nond and he starts to take off thinkin that your a punk with a stock 5.0 with exhaust and then you pull back up next to him and he gives it a lil so you give it a lil then you just punch it and totaly wast him, how cool would that be. and i know all about letting the car idle so you do not boil the oil out of the turbos and all that good stuff. the main thing is dont be in boost a lot before you know you are going to park the car, take it easy because turbos get really hot when you are boosting. Turbostang21 do you have any kind of fuel management? did you build your kit?

ORIGINAL: turbostang21


a sc or blower is belt driven, so obviously its always being run by the motor therefore using hp and continuously stressing the motor. the belt will wear, especially if you're running higher boost levels from slipping . turbo has great street manners since it runs like a na motor until you punch it and it will use less gas. plus they have the sleeper advantage. the only thing you need to remember with a turbo is too let the car idle (to cool) for a minute or two before you shut it off (after running it hard). otherwise sludge could build up in the oil lines and starve the turbo of oil. imports use turbo timers to do this automatically, but its not worth the wiring hassle for mustangs. most turbos can go over 100k miles w/out a rebuild if it is taken car of. but...they are very expensive if you cannot fabricate and install pieces. so as much as i love mine, i wouldn't recommend one unless you're looking for serious power, and/or can do things yourself, and/or have a lot of money.
i have a few custom chips for different boost levels and my tuner is my friend and he can hook up a laptop and make adjustments and log info on the street (mostly for driveability issues). i will be buying a full stand alone next year with some of my tax return. my fuel system is good for 1000+hp with the exception of my injectors which are only 50lbs. they are keeping my at 10psi with pump gas...i will also be switching them out in the spring . my headers are hp since a friend was willing to sell them to me cheap....everything else was fabricated and pieced together. i have everything jet hot coated and it looks very nice. i love turbos...puts a big smile on my face when i drive
Old Dec 17, 2005 | 11:00 PM
  #26  
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Tims 88GT
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do you think i will need some kind of fuel management with that little boost?
Old Dec 17, 2005 | 11:50 PM
  #27  
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yes you will need a fmu or a afpr. i would recommend the aeromotive regulator...pretty cheap and it works great.
Old Dec 18, 2005 | 12:01 AM
  #28  
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Just dont get BBk they are garabage!
Old Dec 18, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #29  
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Tims 88GT
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i have a aermotive regulator lol when i buy stuff i dont go cheep lol anything else i will need? im only going to run 30lb injectors
Old Dec 18, 2005 | 12:50 AM
  #30  
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well what route are you going....kit should include everything you need, especially for lower boost levels. if you are making it you will need a whole lot of things obviously



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